Knowledge, not luck, make Thirteen a winner

GOOD food at affordable prices – it’s a food philosophy that’s admirable and deserves to succeed. Seasoned chef Marco Nico is telling me about his latest venture, Thirteen … and talking in almost evangelical terms. It’s a philosophy that involves using the best of local and the whole beast – nose to tail. I almost feel I’m in a biology class as he carves his way expertly through carcasses – verbally, of course. It may be the fillet this week, but I’m told the short rib is coming out next.

And it involves a fair amount of foraging, with chefs getting more than they bargained for in an early start with baskets, harvesting wild spinach for the table.

Nico has taken over the old Mo’s and the Eora spot in Florida Road, and is making it his own.

Why Thirteen? Well I gather it’s a lucky number on a number of fronts. And why is he back in the kitchen? It’s what he does best.

The decor has had an overhaul and finishing touches are still being applied, but it’s a comfortable and relaxing space. At the back are shelves of cook books, which will change to deli products once the deli gets off the ground.

Marco has a charcuterie kitchen and fridge hidden behind the bar. That too will come into its own, although already some fine salamis and bresaolas are gracing the tables

And there’s a bar outside, making that a potentially very sociable little corner, especially after a few cocktails.

I meet Ingrid Shevlin, who’s writing for her Shrewd Food blog, for a leisurely meal this week.

First up we’re brought an amuse-bouche of mac and cheese poppers in Napoletana sauce with Parmesan and rocket. Just what’s needed to whet the appetite. Too often these, like risotto cakes, are mere stodge balls. Not this time.

Starters could include a number of deli plates: tahina, tzatziki, baba ganoush, artichokes, brinjals, grilled peppers … You get the picture. Or the famed charcuterie board served with pickles and an excellent crisp flat bread. I enjoyed the hummus, which had good flavour and rustic texture.

We went for hot starters of bang bang prawns. These are wild prawns in tempura batter, topped with bang bang mayonnaise –basically a type of wasabi dressing. Ingrid and I were already in heaven, the prawns of good size and firm and juicy, the batter crisp and the bang bang stuff adding just the right bite.

We also shared the East Coast calamari with chourico (from the charcuterie kitchen, of course), olives and chilli. It was a dish famous from Nico’s La Storia days and just as we remembered it.

There’s a selection of flatbreads, made in house and cooked on the charcoal grill, topped with scrumptious-sounding things like prawns, ginger, chilli and dhania; or avo, chourico, pepperdews and rocket. Or there’s a daily pasta and risotto. This time it was something with broccoli and cauliflower. Unfortunately, as soon as we heard the word “cauliflower” our eyes did glaze over a bit, but Nico gave it every bit of zeal he could.

Ingrid went for the fresh kabeljou on mash with a light beurre blanc. It was flashed on the charcoal grill and finished with butter in the pan. It was magnificent, and the best piece of fish I’ve had in a long time. I had instant food envy.

Not that my house-made bangers and mash was shabby. In fact it was rather good, with lovely flavour-packed pork sausages on silky mash and an Irish red gravy. I’d recommend it.

I even popped back the next evening to try the chilli pork ribs. These too were first class, the meat meltingly tender and the sauce not overly hot or too sweet. A lot of cumin and coriander gave it a good earthiness. And the hand-cut chips that accompanied it were superb.

Desserts too are interesting, with a marmalade and raisin bread and butter pudding, and a chocolate brownie making an appearance. We decided to share the crème Catalonia – basically a good old-fashioned crème caramel – although the waiter was somewhat taken aback when I inadvertently ordered crème Catatonia. It was a trifle spongy and firm, and Ingrid certainly would have liked it silkier, but I enjoyed its dense caramel flavours – it reminded me of mother’s baked egg custards when we were kids.

And then Nico insisted we tried their strangely named “Ode to Past Wales”. It was a somewhat unusual combo of caramel fondant harpooned with a mint magnum. I wouldn’t quite say it beached, but rather try for yourself.

The verdict: I have seen the light. Great food can be offered at excellent value.