Talented designers engineer hot new African looks
Four share their views before Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
WITH one day left to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Joburg, it’s all systems go for the designers who will be showcasing at this year’s Spring Summer 2017 runway.
The theme, #RootedinStyle, is aimed at inspiring a celebration of African individuality.
Africa Fashion International founder and chief executive Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe said Fashion Week was primarily about promoting designers to consumers, buyers and media.
“The goal is to attract sales for designers and engagement for sponsors.”
An Africa Trending masterclass will be held on Saturday before the first show to highlight what the continent has to offer.
“This will share insights on global fashion trends, while engaging influencers in rich discussions about how to elevate and promote African fashion,” she said.
Tanzanian designer Sheria Ngowi, Spero Villioti, VIZUVLGVDS and Orapeleng Modutle are some of the designers who will be showcasing at the new runway at Mall of Africa.
They spoke about how they see fashion, the inspiration and their plans.
SHERIA NGOWI Menswear designer
The Tanzanian has won several awards, including Best Menswear Designer of the Year – East and Central Africa at the Swahili Fashion Week in 2012. His first collection was a dedication to his late father who inspired his love for fashion.
His style is “simple yet classic and quietly confident”.
“I have the honour and privilege of leaving a legacy, not only for my family but for my generation. There is so much strife in the world today, and I wanted my collection to reflect that just in the quiet confidence of being you, one is able to leave a legacy of strength, boldness, courage, confidence and hope.”
His new collection will see him focus on the challenges he has faced.
“As a fashion designer in Africa, I have learnt resilience and having unshakeable faith. These are vital ingredients to being the best I can be. Not just for myself but for others.
“What I am fighting for and building today is breaking barriers for the generations to come. My new collection embodies this.”
Ngowi said he had seen a fashion shift in the last few years as young African designers had become bold and confident.
“There’s such a vibrancy in design and creativity that has been truly world class,” he said.
Sheria’s showcase will be on Saturday at 6.30pm.
SPERO VILLIOTI Womenswear
Villioti first worked as a junior designer for Frank Usher in London. He started his couture collection in the country but continued as a senior designer for Usher on a freelance basis, designing five international collections a year – Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter and Cruise Line.
He has won numerous awards and been showcasing at AFI since inception.
His inspiration for the SS17 collection is feminine, elegant and classy, from the 1900-1920s era.
“Every collection for me is special as it takes a life of its own. The fabrics I find seem to tell me the story of what they want, and somehow a delicate story with passion at its core starts to intertwine a romance I feel for the art that I love.”
The materials Villioti prefers to use are delicate fabrics with transparent nets and embroidery, using an assortment of weights and textures.
“Everybody has big plans for the year, not that life works according to your plans. So I prefer to say I have aspirations and try to make them happen, and see what happens because life is full of surprises.”
In the last 10 years, the fashion shift Villioti has seen includes quality locally made products.
“I have seen a great improvement in up-to-date trends, and construction and finish of products with a unique South African flair but without the need to copy what is shown in the three major fashion capitals of the world. Rather, showcasing how people in Africa feel about fashion.”
Villioti’s collection can be seen on opening night, Thursday, at 7.30pm.
VIZUVLGVDS (pronounced Visual Gods) Women and menswear
Muktar Onifade has become a global fashion leader since launching this brand. His work has seen him design for top Nigerian artists, including Davido, Banky W, Pantoraking, D’banj and Ice Prince as well as stylist Ugo Mozie. He has also dressed Congolese artist Young Paris.
The 26-year-old works as an engineer at General Motors. This will be his first MBFWJ showcasing his theoretical, original and fundamental designs.
“The collection is inspired by minimal architectural silhouettes and engineered lines.
“We incorporate silver wire ribbon trims and 3D stitching into our pieces to create a unique perspective on contemporary fashion that also has a feel of industrial design. Our vision is to explore unique engineering concepts and architectural buildings to create abstract pieces that are original and utilitarian.”
The collection is titled GVD In You, inspired by the renaissance of young African creatives.
“It’s about believing in the power within, creating art that is unapologetically original to my heritage and history, and setting new standards.
“As an African designer, I feel it’s important to share my unique perspective and ideas without pressure to conform to the industry norm. I believe if you give the younger generation of creatives the right tools and knowledge, they will find their power within and add true value to the world.”
Onifade’s collection materials include lightweight fabrics perfect for spring/summer.
“Like breathable 100% linen and linen blends, lightweight shirting fabric, denims, high quality terry cloth and lightweight wax twill fabric.”
For Onifade, the most fundamental shift he has seen in the industry is the rise of high luxury street wear and emergence of African-inspired garments across the globe.
His showcase will be on Saturday at 5.30pm.
ORAPELENG MODUTLE Womenswear
Modutle’s work is popular on social media and his OM Style Avenue is a celebration of inspirational designs and artistic garments that bring beauty, grace and elegance.
“Fashion and beauty is not simply about image; these elements are cultural barometers for what is going on in society and in the lives of women and men. It’s a story you must tell visually through a collection of powerful images.”
The inspiration behind the current collection is urban, luxury and drama.
“It’s inspired by the movie Maleficent, the Queen of the Forest. It is a tale of intrigue and drama set against urban luxury with references from the medieval era with lots of flamenco frills and ruffled silhouettes.”
Modutle said the materials used this year were French lace, organza, silks and “a whole lot of luxurious fabrics with a juxtaposition of comfort and less of the bridal”.
He said the SA fashion industry had grown a lot from where it started and developed a vision for the industry pivotal to its growth.
His Style Avenue collection will showcase on Friday at 7.30pm.
MBFWJ will see 44 designers showcase their work for the Spring/Summer collections as it celebrates a decade of African excellence in fashion. Designers include David Tlale, Fabiani, Khosi Nkosi, Gavin Rajah and Marianne Fassler.
Tickets to the shows, which run from tomorrow to Saturday, cost R150.