Use the calm before storm to check if your roof is winter-proof

and other forms of costly damage. Knowing the condition of your roof and keeping potential problems at bay is essential for extending the life of your roof and keeping money in your wallet.

Consult a professional roofing contractor who can help you identify problem areas on a roof. Small repairs can be carried out easily, and prevent a major roof problem. A contractor can also determine if the roofing installing was done according to manufacturers’ and industry standards.

Gutters must be checked to determine if they are free of cracks, fastened correctly and draining efficiently. More frequent checks should be done during the autumn to get rid of leaves, dead birds and tennis balls from clogging up your gutters.

Roof tiles and other forms of roof covering must be carefully inspected. Any missing or cracked tiles must be fixed immediately. If there has been a serious storm or unusual weather, you should inspect your roof for possible damage. Check that the roof tiles are properly fixed to the battens.

Look around the chimney and take note of any irregularities. Each piece flashing around the chimney should be checked to ensure that the waterproofing is in place. Any torn flashing or damaged flashing must be immediately repaired.

Check all the mortar and bricks on the chimney for cracks which could let water in. Water can migrate through old masonry and masonry joints with heavy wind-driven rains.

Clean all debris and tree waste from the roof.

Look for any signs of water damage on your ceiling.

Pay close attention to roof edges, attic vents, skylights, solar panels, dormers, roof ventilations and wall flashings.

If you are going to venture on to your roof, or even just check your gutters, ensure that you follow basic safety procedures. Ensure that your ladder is well secured; never walk on a wet roof; and watch out for mossy areas which will remain slippery even if the rest of the roof is dry.

The building inspector tells us what needs to be in place before an occupancy certificate is issued.

Applications for occupancy: Single Dwellings Here are the criteria:

The building must comply with the approved building plans.

Water connected and turned on. Drainage system (sewerage) tested and working. No downpipes or any stormwater allowed in the sewerage system. All sanitary fittings on the approved plan installed.

Electricity supply turned on and electrical compliance certificate submitted.

Engineer’s completion certificates submitted for structural work.

No dangerous features are allowed. Balustrades and glass will be checked.

Ceilings to be completed. Where applicable, exterior walls to be plastered and painted.

If these criteria are not met, you can be forced to move out. Questions and answers Peter says: My house is more than 40 years old. In those days they used strong adhesives for the lino. Now I want to tile the area – so how do I get the lino off? Or can I tile over the lino?

I would not even consider tiling over the lino, but am interested to see if any of our readers have attempted this and if they have had success. Perhaps someone with experience in adhesives will offer advice.

Presumably the lino is fixed to a cement screeded floor. I would certainly not want to lay tiles on an old timber floor. A blow torch is not a healthy way to go, but a bit of hard labour with a hammer and bolster or a flat spade will get the job done. Either chip away at the edges with the chisel or try and get the spade underneath. A bit of softening with a blow torch would help the spade method. Either way, you will end up chipping the screed which will give better adhesion to the tile adhesive.

Please keep your questions or comments coming to don@macalister.co.za or SMS only to 082 4463859