‘Im­mersed in the mo­ment.. that’s where life is ex­pe­ri­enced at its fullest’

Weekend Argus (Saturday Edition) - - SPORT -

mat­ter. I made up the sound­track in my head. There was mewl­ing, fol­lowed by scream­ing and the roar of wa­ter surg­ing and ex­plod­ing over the sur­geon ta­ble shal­lows of a gran­ite seabed.

It re­ally makes you ap­pre­ci­ate surfers’ abil­ity to man­age fear. When pad­dling for a big wave on a 10 foot “rhino chaser”, it’s not easy to back away from tak­ing off, once you’re com­mit­ted. In that mo­ment, this com­mit­ment to go must have a split se­cond life-and-death strug­gle with a heart- in- throat stab of life-pre­serv­ing fear.

You must force your­self over that wa­tery ledge at the edge of the abyss.

This made me think of some­thing big wave surfer Chris Ber­tish said: “In big wave surf­ing you have to be 100% im­mersed in the mo­ment. It forces you back into the present. And that’s where life is ex­pe­ri­enced at it’s fullest.”

A lo­cal film­maker, Rick Wall, is mak­ing a movie about this and other themes around our Cape Town big wave surfers. Called Sa­tori, it looks like a re­fresh­ing an­ti­dote to the con­sumer- driven, ma­chinewhipped gloop that makes puffery out of the big wave drama in a mushy smoothie made with the tears of hip­sters, sales tar­gets and frag­ments of neoprene.

The film needs a crack­ing win­ter of swell this year (and some fur­ther fund­ing) be­fore it will find fruition.

Ap­par­ently Sa­tori is a Ja­panese word that means “sud­den en­light­en­ment” – an epiphany.

You don’t get that by mind-surf­ing. See you in the

wa­ter.

Jordy Smith won his third con­sec­u­tive Round 1 at the Mar­garet River Pro yes­ter­day in heavy 6-8’ bar­rels at the al­ter­nate venue of North Beach. Cape Town’s Michael Fe­bru­ary lost his open­ing heat, and has been rel­e­gated to the man-on-man elim­i­na­tion Round 2, which he must win to progress.

The big swell has also landed in East Lon­don, where more than 100 of South Africa’s top open and ju­nior surfers – with a small group from over­seas – are surf­ing in the Mitchum Buf­falo City Surf Pro pre­sented by Reef Wet­suits. Con­di­tions at Na­hoon Reef look set for a solid 8 foot to­day.

To­day, the surf is proper, at least 6-10’ with strong SSE winds. The on­shore kills Muizen­berg, although you should be surfed out af­ter a pur­ple patch of great waves there this week. Sim­i­lar winds blow to­mor­row, sadly, but the other side is crank­ing in pure SE and big gap­ing tubes on the beach­breaks.

SLATTER

THE RIGHT STUFF: Mick Cor­bett at the Right in Aus­tralia, a nom­i­na­tion for the WSL Big Wave Awards.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from South Africa

© PressReader. All rights reserved.