Weekend Argus (Saturday Edition)
DESIGNERS CREATING TRIBES
Traditional textiles reworked for a modern style tribe, three local designer labels – fresh off the South African Fashion Week Autumn/ Winter 2019 runway in Sandton at the weekend – shared their creative process and forecast with us
JUDITH-ATELIER is a high-end, luxury womenswear designer label founded by Judi Nel. The label enhances femininity through special attention to fabric and embellishment choices, including the female form and specific details.
Nel says the collection is inspired by the monochrome trend.
“I am not a big trend follower but when I do, I only use the framework and make it my own.
“Nature, structure and volume were part of my inspiration and creation process.”
Judith-Atelier’s summer collection featured a monochromatic pallet of red and white. The winter collection is predominantly black and white.
“Both our collections are very bold and strong this year. As for summer the combination of red/ pink/ white is a very big trend. We’ve never done black in any of our other collections.
“I did my research and found that monochrome is a big thing next year that’s when I thought let’s go black and white.
“On the SAFW runway, the whole collection came together in such a beautiful way,” said the designer.
MANTSHO clothing label was established by Johannesburg-based designer Palesa Mokubung working with African textiles to transform them into modern and edgy designs, incorporating fine silks and woven fabrics.
Mokubung’s AW19 collection shows elements and textures of a new “Mantsho tribe” she calls the “Basai Tribe”.
“This is the first of a series of tribes we will create. You can call it a fashion tribe,” said Mokubung.
“At this showcase we created two textiles, one inspired by
Basotho and the other by the Masai. Together they are the ‘Basai Tribe’.
“The common thread between the two tribes and fabric designs, of course, was the Mantsho flower woven into graphics because it is the DNA of the brand,” said Mokubung.
Mokubung talked about the fabrics used: “Mesh allowed the Masai colours through. The faux fur represented the wild animals in the Masai’s environment.
“Check suiting referenced the ‘shuka’, which is the Masai check cloth they wrap around themselves. Scuba is warm winter fabric that was used as part of the collection.”
BLACK Coffee’s AW19 collection, called Pendulum, is retrospective, inspired by a body of work spanning two decades. Signature statement pieces were reinvented and restructured for a different time and space.
With new takes on old attitudes, Pendulum swings both ways, blending Jacques van der Watt’s futuristic vision with glory-day glamour, Virgo precision and cutting humour.
You’ll spot the signature Black Coffee approach through the
Pendulum garments.
Re-engineering of aesthetic conventions alongside hand-rendered patterns embellished on to delicate mesh. Graphic geometry, as well as sculptural and interlocking components. Confident and sophisticated silhouettes that both enhance and delicately distort the human form.
At the core of Black Coffee’s latest collection lies the spark of that initial excitement when ideas first took shape. It’s a return to a fun feeling of extended possibilities, of looking forward with new eyes and fresh perspectives.