The outliers

It

was Constantia that put South Africa on the world wine map over 200 years ago, the region’s legendary sweet wines finding favour with European aristocracy. Areas such as Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek have long been popular, while more recently the likes of the Swartland, Elgin and the Hemelen-Aarde wine region have grabbed the spotlight. But quality grapes are farmed in many outlying areas now – places that may cause even the most dedicated enthusiast to do a double-take when glancing at the wine of origin on a label.

Expanded wine production makes complete sense considering we’re

Move over Stellies and Constantia, guest writer David Cope reckons you should look to Prieska and the Karoo for some excellent wines produced in the most unexpected places

blessed with suitable conditions across a huge and highly diverse area, but the focus on quality rather than simply volume is a relatively new evolution.

You can now drive 10 hours north of Cape Town and find vineyards growing along the Orange River, which produce grapes good enough to challenge the best of any other region, something unthinkable a few years ago.

Some of the best Sauvignon Blanc wines today are from outlier areas such as Lamberts Bay, high up the

West Coast, or Elim, near the tip of Africa. The KwaZulu-Natal Midlands produces several decent red blends, while Plettenberg Bay is known for its sparkling wines. Here are a few more to look for – wines to try not only because they’re from exciting growing areas, but also because they’re of exceptional quality.

Mount Sutherland Tempranillo 2014 Area: Sutherland-Karoo

In 2004 the first grapes were planted outside Sutherland by the De Waal family, who were looking for a highaltitude, continental area akin to famous regions in Europe. The set-up is largely experimental: vineyards are tiny parcels of varieties (including Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir and Riesling), meaning seriously small volumes that are reduced even more by the constant fight against birds and baboons – for some vineyards, there are no grapes come harvest time! X-factor: Tempranillo is rare in SA, so enjoy the intensely dark, savoury character, which has a big yet fine tannin structure.

Match with: Lamb however you like it. A roasted leg, braaied rosemary-lemon chops, or a slow-cooked neck braise would all work perfectly.

Cederberg Bukettraube 2018 Area: Cederberg

On a farm in the middle of a vast wilderness area, David Niewoudt has done incredibly well to turn out wines of premium quality and great value. Grapes for wine were first planted here in 1973, at a time when farming was dedicated to fruit and tobacco production. Since then, Cederberg wines have become renowned, largely due to their friendly style and positioning in the market where they overdeliver on price. X-factor: With just 77 hectares of Bukettraube left in the world, this is an internationally rare variety. It’s an off-dry wine (available at Woolies), but with a good lick of acidity that makes it perfect for spicy Asian foods.

Match with: Ginger, chilli and limestuffed roasted fish, or hot Indian-spiced chicken kebabs.

Sijnn White 2016 Area: Malgas

After noticing a similarity with the

Douro region of Portugal, David Trafford purchased land on the banks of the Breede River near Malgas and planted several Portuguese and a few traditional French varieties. His first vintage release of 2007 pioneered the ward of Malgas, an area with stony soils and minimal rainfall. With an eye on the future, he has since planted even more interesting and drought-considered varieties such as Verdelho, Grenache Blanc and the Greek grape Assyrtiko.

X-factor: Chenin Blanc with Roussanne and Viognier, all from bush vines growing in uniquely stony soils, makes for an intensely mineral and complex white wine experience.

Match with: Such a versatile wine works as perfectly with a lemon roast chicken or saltimbocca as it does with sautéed scallops or Mozambique-style grilled prawns.

Lowerland Tannat 2016 Area: Prieska

Former rock musician Bertie Coetzee is an organic- and sustainability-obsessed farmer who brings a fresh approach to this farming region along the Orange River in the Northern Cape. In addition to farming organic pecan nuts, wheat and livestock, he also grows Viognier, Colombard and several red varieties that are harvested and sent on a long journey to Stellenbosch where they’re made into a range of small-batch, certified-organic wines.

X-factor: Tannat is a seldom-seen French grape that makes full-bodied, fruitintensive wines, this being no exception. Decant before drinking for best results. Match with: This wine, paired with a rich, slow-cooked mutton potjie, is hard to beat. Cape Rock Grenache 2017 Area: Olifants River

While the region is known for its bulk wine industry, producers such as

Gavin Brand and his Cape Rock label have realised it is also home to many established vineyards of interesting varieties such as Carignan, Grenache Blanc, Tinta Barocca and Touriga Naçional. By working with these and a minimalintervention approach in the cellar, he has built Cape Rock into a respected niche producer from an unlikely area. X-factor: Grenache such as this offers an incredible combination of coarse tannin texture and fresh cherry fruit in a light-bodied red wine that’s best served slightly chilled.

Match with: Delicious with a cured meat-and-cheese platter or a big pot of linguine puttanesca.

Raised By Wolves “Limestone” Pinot Noir 2015

Area: Vermaaklikheid

Winemaker Adam Mason has crafted one of the most distinctive Pinot Noirs recently released in South Africa by using grapes sourced near this quiet riverside village in the Overberg.

The individuality of this wine makes it a suitable part of the Raised By Wolves range, which Adam created to explore the potential of notable vineyard sites he identifies across the Cape.

X-factor: The vineyard’s limestone soils provide earthy, mineral undertones to the fruitier notes of the wine, a Pinot Noir flavour profile you’re unlikely to come across frequently.

Match with: Rare springbok loin, served with a beetroot-and-thyme jus.

“FORMER ROCK MUSICIAN BERTIE COETZEE BRINGS A FRESH APPROACH TO THIS FARMING REGION ALONG THE ORANGE RIVER”