Cava, chaos, Corpinnat and customer confusion

I take a different view to that expressed by the sentiment behind the title of the recent article, written by my learned friend, Miquel Hudin (www.hudin.com). Whilst I know where he’s coming from, and I am agree with many of the views therein, I nevertheless believe that there is still excellent cava being made!

‘Corpinnat and the death of fine Cava’, certainly catches the eye, a little like the obituary pages in British broadsheets (alliteration alert – this is the second so far!). Also, following the worrying (for DO Cava at least) abandonment of the DO by nine esteemed cava producers recently, it would appear that the fissures appearing in protective ‘walls’ surrounding Spain’s most famous sparkling wine, are about to collapse altogether.

Indeed, it could be argued that these fissures were more like huge, gaping cracks as this latest defection follows others. Firstly, and, arguably the most shocking of all was the exit of Raventos i Blanc, who decided to leave DO Cava in 2012. This news reverberated around, not only the Spanish wine scene, but also that of the world! The name Raventos, had always been synonymous with cava as it was the ancestors of the current incumbent, Pepe Raventos, who actually founded the brand, well over one hundred years ago!

One year later a small group of cava producers in Penedès also decided to desert the DO (coincidentally and ironically it’s in Penedès that the latest defection has occurred – more on this in a moment). Dissatisfied with DO Cava, for a number of reasons, these particular rebels opted out. They now make what is called Clàssic Penedès – essentially the same product as cava (though one or two of the regulations may have been changed) in the same way as they were making their fizz previously.

And now? Well there’s a new kid on the block, taking the form of a group of dedicated cava producers who are also discontented with the way the quality level of DO Cava has been allowed, in their view, to plummet. The group’s name is Corpinnat (a name that has for some reason displeased many commentators – what’s in a name? – Though in fact this analogy is not fit for purpose, because, the Corpinnat producers will to a man (and woman] tell you that a cava by any other name would not smell as poor!).

So, what’s all the fuss about? Well, dedicated readers of Cork Talk (are there any?!) may remember an article I wrote of the Raventos defection, titled The Cava Refuseniks and archived here https://www.colinharknessonwine.com/articles/ page/59/. Essentially, Raventos and subsequently those who now make their sparklers under the auspices of Clàssic Penedès were concerned that their fine cavas, at the top end of the quality spectrum were being classed the same as those whose cava sells for under 2€ a bottle.

Customers were spurning the better quality and higher priced bottles (though nothing like as high as, for example, Champagne) for the oh-so-cheap and dreadfully inferior versions of what they presumed was the same thing. Why? Because they were all called simple ‘Cava’. Plus, those who sampled cava for the first time, choosing the nasty, lesser examples were being put off the brand because of the absence of any quality. You can imagine the frustration of Raventos et al who were trying to separate themselves from the worse than also-rans of the sector. Clearly, for them, a divorce was necessary.

And, I’m afraid to say that nothing much has changed. Again regular readers may remember articles I wrote following my interview with the then President of DO Cava who told me of an exciting new initiative, the creation of a top tier within the DO, to be called Cava de Paraje Calificada. It was to be a new dawn for Cava, and I went along with it even travelling (following another invitation to Cataluña) for the official launch a couple of years later, and indeed, writing, eventually about one of the first cavas to be elevated to the top of the quality pyramid – which was, indeed, excellent.

However, too many compromises had to be made, largely at the bidding of the major producers, Freixenet, Codorniu and García Carrión, re the rules and regulations, ensuring that the big boys could still play!

Next came the implementation of the phrase, Premium Cava, which readers will have seen in this column. Premium Cava was seen as a way to differentiate the finer quality from the dross, and almost invariably referred to Reserva and Gran Reserva styles. Such cavas can indeed be wonderful, but the phrase has no official meaning, and doesn’t appear on labels. This customer confusion continues.

Well, nine of the better cava produces have now banded together to form Corpinnat, with a view to establish Spanish Sparkling Wine at the top, along with Champagne and Italy’s Franciacorta. The Gang of Nine are: Gramona, Recaredo, Nadal, Sabaté i Coca, Llopart, Torelló, Can Feixes, Júlia Bernet, and Mas Candí.

So, what are consumers to do when faced with choosing one Spanish Sparkling Wine from those marked: Cava; Raventos i Blanc; Clàssic Penedès; and Corpinnat? More on Corpinnat’s philosophy, and their fizz, soon!

My great thanks to Miquel Hudin for his article and his replies to my many e-mails, also to others whom I’ve canvassed as research for this article.