Around the lost mountain – day 1
THIS long-distance walk starts and finishes in Torla – an attractive village/town in Huesca province which is worth a visit in its own right due to its history and because it is the gateway to the Ordesa canyon and the Ordesa y Monte Perdido national park (highest level of protection in Spain).
This first stage can also form the basis of a day walk from Torla, with unbeatable views of the Ordesa canyon and Monte Perdido (the lost mountain). Most people choose to see Ordesa from the valley floor, using the GR-11 footpath which follows the Arazas river and its waterfalls up to the Soasa cirque. This route is best avoided in peak season due to the multitude who can be found dragging themselves along the track to Cola de Caballo waterfall at the end. A far less-used route is the one outlined here.
The start point can be found by following the road through Torla towards Ordesa. Just after the Eidelweiss hotel (around 30 metres further on) a green sign on the right of the road points for ‘Ordesa por senda peatonal’. Follow the wide cobbled track down as far as the country road. Cross the bridge over the Ara river and continue on towards the campsite. A few metres before the site bear right, taking the sign for Santa Ana and start the ascent on the rural road/track. The route is waymarked with
white/yellow stripes – it’s the PR-HU 129 (google this for a day walk description).
The PR route turns off the road to climb in a more direct fashion up the slope, which is fairly steep in parts. Those who want a more leisurely climb
should stick to the road.
The path emerges at the Santa Ana hermitage. Here (after a quick prayer) the walker can continue on the faster route on the PR path or keep on the track. I took the track which started to offer some really stunning views of the opening of the Ordesa canyon. Eventually the PR people
will have to get onto the track because the path stops. The track continues on and up to a point where it starts to run parallel to the wall of the Ordesa canyon at around 2,100 metres. This is a very wide ridge where there are also views down towards
the Añisclo canyon on the right. On the left – on the other side of Ordesa – the Brecha de Rolando (Roland’s breach) can be spotted and towering peaks such as Taillón (3,144m). Continue along the wide track where there are occasionally cyclists and the odd 4x4 vehicle.
Keep on to a turn off on the
left, which is marked by two posts which could support a ‘keep out’ chain. After a couple of metres the ascending track turns into grass and the climb becomes even more enjoyable. The track goes up and over and on to a point above the Ordesa
canyon which offers the best view of Monte Perdido that I have seen (see photo in last week’s paper). Day walkers should try to reach this spot, even though it would be at least a 24km hike in total. It’s a wide area above an opening in the canyon wall.
From here the track turns into a path. Much more care has to be taken now as the path runs close to the canyon wall, with precipitous drops off to the left. The views are still awesome but complete concentration is needed on this section due to the danger.
Soon the path is running along a wide ridge again and the walker should try to keep centre left – and not stray too far from the canyon wall.
Soon there is a view of the cirque at the top of the canyon and the Cola de Caballo waterfall. The destination for the day is to the right of the waterfall, the Góriz mountain refuge. Follow the path round left as it curves with the cirque and starts to head directly for Góriz at 2,200 metres.
Góriz is an extremely popular refuge and is often very busy, so more people will be milling round on this section. Eventually the path meets up with the GR-11 path just short of the refuge. Walkers are advised to book in advance for a bed (dormitories) at the refuge.
Many people camp outside the building and use it for meals which have to be booked in advance. More information at www.goriz.es
Torla to Góriz will take between 7-9 hours. The route is approximately 21km, with around 1,350 metres of ascent. The map for the route is the Editorial Alpina ‘Ordesa y Monte Perdido’, available in the Torla shops.
Day 2 - next week