Around the lost mountain - day 2
THIS is a tough day on the GR11 trans-Pyrenean footpath. My route ran from the Góriz mountain refuge to the village/town of Biesla. It took more than 12 hours, mainly due to the difficulty of the terrain.
This section can be made a little less painful by overnighting at an earlier stopover in the Pineta valley (explained next week).
Although I would class the difficultly of this day’s walk as ‘extreme’ (it is one of the toughest stages of the GR-11), it is also one of the most breathtaking – in more ways than one. The walker passes through some of the most dramatic high-mountain areas visited by the trans-Pyrenean path.
Starting above the cirque at the head of the Ordesa canyon – directly below the lost mountain (Monte Perdido), the path heads over and down into the Añisclo canyon and then up and over into the Pineta valley.
An early start from Góriz is essential – and is not as difficult as it sounds as breakfast is served early at the refuge and mountaineers will be milling about long before dawn to start out on their ascent of Monte Perdido (3,355 metres).
Góriz stands at 2,200m and it’s just 2km up to the first pass – the Collado de Arrablo at 2,343m. This is a pleasant and easy start to the day, with awe inspiring views back towards the Góriz cirque and the 3,000metre peaks which form a wall of rock behind it.
At the pass there is a sign advising walkers not to take the old GR-11 route around the Faja de las Olas (this is now the GR-11.9). This is a very difficult traverse and should only be contemplated by mountaineers.
The first part of the descent from Arrablo is a joy as the scree path quickly runs into mountain pasture. Cows may be grazing this area and pretty soon you will be wondering how they managed to get there.
The green ‘grass’ disappears as the path enters a ravine – the Barranco de la Fon Blanca. From here on it’s slow progress on a steep, rocky descent in order to reach the Añisclo canyon.
The GR-11 crosses over the stream and then begins to ascend the top end of the canyon. I had seen this climb from afar during a previous trip and thought it would be tough and not very enjoyable with a heavy pack. I was wrong.
Although steep, by Pyrenees standards this is not a cruel ascent. And it is one of the most pleasurable climbs imaginable. The path runs alongside the stream/river up a predominately grassy, green mountainside. Handily, just under half way up, there is a waterfall and pool in the river where the walker can have a dip. I did - and emerged feeling refreshed and lucky to be alive. The water is glacial but the experience was extraordinarily good.
The path continues on and up, bearing slightly to the left, before dog-legging right to reach the Collado de Añisclo pass at 2,453m. The views from here back down the Añisclo canyon are spectacular. Looking over the other side into the Pineta valley is also an extraordinary sight, but your heart will sink and legs will wobble as you contemplate the descent that lies ahead to reach the valley floor.
Part 2 of day 2 next week.