Seeing the Maestrat
AND on to Morella. The journey up the CV-15 road has taken you through a large swathe of the rugged interior of Castellón province – over the pass at Ares de Maestrat, then onto the CV-12 to cross flatter country and over another pass to reach Morella.
This medieval walled town is another spectacular spot, with its castle perched at a seemingly impossibly high position above the buildings below.
Even for people who are not mountain walkers, Morella is worth a visit. A fair bit of effort still has to be expended getting round the town, with its steep streets and parking for cars outside the walls. The defences are worth exploring. Two kilometres of thick perimeter wall surround Morella, with ten towers and seven gates which are still the access points to the town. Getting hold of a map of the old streets and having a good trudge around is a walk in itself. However, the view from the walls will make many want to venture out into the hinterland.
Morella, which stands at the northern reaches of the Maestrat, is well serviced by footpaths – just like the rest of the area. And again, it’s the limestone escarpments and ravines which provide the spectacular scenery. The lack of inhabitants in the countryside areas has also allowed nature to flourish. Flocks of griffon vultures are common, as is the Iberian ibex (Capra pyrenaica).
To get out and see the wildlife there are two long-distance footpaths running through the area. There’s the ubiquitous GR-7 which comes down from France and continues on to Andalucía. This footpath passes through Morella and on to Ares. It’s signposted from the town and for people who don’t want to take their car, it’s a good option. For those who want to venture further afield there is the GR-331. This is a 166-km round route which takes in many villages in the Maestrat, including Ares.
I drove out of Morella and picked up the GR-331 at Herbeset and walked to Castell de Cabres and then a little bit further before returning on the same path. I found that the route was well signposted and waymarked in most places (although not all). There are also various short distance PR walks from the small villages such as Castell de Cabres, which are waiting to be discovered.
Before heading to Morella it is best to study the Google map of the town, as the walls will make things tricky before you get your bearings. I followed the signs for San Miguel (Sant Miquel) gate – there is a large free public car park close by. Head up the steps from the car park to enter through the nearest gate, then pass the tourism office. This is the highpoint of the town and the main streets can be accessed from here.
Places to stay include the Hotel Cardenal Ram, a converted 16th century building (hotelcardenalram.com), with plenty of other options available via Booking.com
It is best avoid Morella at peak holiday times such as August as it’s a well-visited tourist spot.