VIENTIANE
Laos’s capital combines French colonial architecture with Buddhist temples while its cuisine blends local produce with Gallic technique
Imogen Lepere drinks it all in
Why go? Historically known as the ‘City of Sandalwood,’ Vientiane is one of Asia’s sleepiest capitals, which is key to its charm. With 200,000 residents, it’s a city of bicycles and bakeries, where laundry billows over French colonial boulevards and older residents tell tales of the Secret War of the 1960s when the streets were home to American and Vietnamese spies. The pace of life ambles along as gently as the Mekong River, which separates Vientiane from Thailand and provides a setting for iced coffees in waterfront cafes, plus a breezy spot from which to enjoy the weather.
What to do Several of the city’s most interesting curiosities are located within the Ban Anou District. Start at Wat Si Saket on Lan Xang Road, Laos’s star temple, which conceals thousands of carved Buddha statues in its marble folds. The nearby That Dam stupa Rue Samsenthai dates back to the 16th century, making it the oldest in Vientiane – many locals believe it is guarded by a seven headed naga (dragon). Continue on down Avenue Lane Xang until you reach the Patuxai Monument, which looks suspiciously like Paris’s Arc de Triomphe and boasts 360 degree views from the top. Look out for engraved lotus leaves and kinnari (half bird, half woman figures) as you climb. Take a tuk-tuk (a cheap and easy way to travel around here) to the Xaysetha District where the glittering spires of Pha That Luang shimmer through the heat. It’s the country’s holiest temple and is believed to contain a fragment of the Buddha though the jury is out on whether it’s his breastbone or hair. For modern and incredibly moving history, visit the exhibition at charity COPE (copelaos.org) on Khouvieng Road to witness inspiring stories from those who survived the US attacks of the late ’60s and ’70s. A little outside the centre near a pretty lake, the Lao Textile Museum in Ban Nongtha Tai unravels the region’s silk weaving artistry through a beautiful private collection.
Where to stay Like many things in the city, Vientiane’s boutique hotels are steeped in colonial nostalgia, both historic and cultivated. A second generation bolthole set a few metres back from the Mekong, Hôtel Khamvongsa (Tel: 00856 21 223257 or visit hotelkhamvongsa.com) is named after the current owner’s mother. With air conditioning, tiled floors and dark wood furniture, it strikes the right balance between characterful, comfortable and great value. Luxuriously restored by its original French owners after a stint as a government housing facility, the Settha Palace Hotel (Tel: 00856 21 217581 or visit setthapalace.com) is the city’s most graceful while Green Park (Tel: 00 856 21 264097) has a lovely garden swimming pool. At the more modern end of the spectrum, Salana Boutique Hotel (Tel: 00856 21 254254 or visit salanaboutique.com) is centrally located and renowned for its attentive service.
Where to eat and drink Nestled away down a shadowy alley that leads nowhere, Kung’s Café off Rue Simeuang is a local favourite. Tuck into homely soups and drink coffee from the Bolaven Plateau beneath a canopy of gourds, ferns and baskets of exotic fruit. For something more formal, Bistro 22 Samsenthai Road (Tel: 00856 21 214129) is an elegant echo of the 60 years of French rule that lasted until 1954. Menus fuse creamy French sauces with local ingredients such as Beerlao beer. A charming pit stop that combines well with a visit to nearby Wat Ong Teu, Pha Khao Lao (Tel: 00856 20 77 517272) is a rambling terrace restaurant shaded by exotic greenery. Don’t miss duck larb (minced meat salad) topped with toasted rice powder. From 5 p.m., Ban Anou Night Market sees Khoun Boulom Road flooded with stalls selling kai yang (grilled chicken), moo ping (pork on skewers) and bowls of steaming klao niaw sticky rice. Supper here is a rite of passage. For cold beer by the litre, head to M-Park Ban Mixay, a street food concept that wouldn’t look out of place in Shoreditch. The next morning, boutique roaster Le Trio Coffee Rue Setthathirat has you covered.
Time running out? Catch the No. 14 bus to Buddha Park, which boasts 200 sculptures by monk and artist Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat.
Trip tip The Mekong’s riverside park is the centre of the city’s social life and hosts enthusiastically attended public aerobics classes at 5 p.m. daily. Strut your stuff while watching the sun bathe the lush countryside in a peachy glow.