‘There’s so much more to Indian cuisine than butter chicken’
Acclaimed Karnataka-born chef, author and restaurateur Hari Nayak who is here for Gourmet Galle talks to Shannon Salgadoe
While the cuisine of India has undoubtedly become quite popular worldwide, there is a lot more to it than what people are aware of, says one of the cuisine’s leading exponents Hari Nayak whose lifelong quest is to draw attention to the culinary delights that remain in the dark. “People tend to put Indian cuisine in a box. ‘Where is the butter chicken? Where is the chicken masala? Where is the naan? Where is the samosa? Where is the lassi?’ That’s the limitation of the knowledge.”
Here in Sri Lanka for the culinary celebration Gourmet Galle brought to life by the same team behind the Galle Literary Festival, Hari is one of the stars of the 12-week extravaganza currently in its second phase, which culminates on March 31.
The inaugural food festival features 12 internationally-recognised chefs in a series of culinary events such as curated dinners and masterclasses taking place every weekend at some of the finest boutique hotels, villas, and luxury spaces scattered along the southern coast of the island.
Each weekend consists of an unforgettable dining experience masterminded by a visiting chef, along with a culinary masterclass conducted in a pop-up kitchen within the walls of the Galle Fort every Sunday. Thus far, the gastronomic delights of Jeremy Lee, James Lowe, O Tama Carey, Karan Gokani, Mark Hix, and Cynthia Shanmugalingam have taken centre stage.
The weekend of March 9 – 10 will be taken over by the Karnataka-born chef, author, and restaurateur. With six best-selling books to his name, Hari is the founding chef of acclaimed New York restaurant Sona and chef-owner of Michelin-rated Indian restaurant JHOL in Bangkok. He has also tied up with several hospitality groups around the world, most recently with the Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa.
Hari rose to fame for his philosophy of cooking modern Indian food with a
Western approach but his style has evolved over the years, along with the market. “It’s not very common now as people are very familiar with what regional Indian food is all about and fusion food is frowned upon, so I’ve kind of started to stay away from too much fusion as it is not what it used to be. Now I try to cook more regional Indian food with my own touch, only slightly modernising things. It has kind of evolved, but it definitely still has my signature. I do use creative ingredients but I try to stay true to the cuisine, now more than ever.”
Hari stands his ground with what he offers up on his menus, shedding light on regional Indian cuisine and highlighting coastal Indian food attributed to the West Coast of India as well as the food of South India, which shares some of its origins with the cuisine of Sri Lanka through its use of coconut, coconut milk, and curries a far cry from the classic North Indian fare. “Things are evolving. It’s all about education, and it’s trying to teach people that there is so much more to Indians and their cuisine than butter chicken.”
The dining experience hosted by Hari will take place at the exclusive luxury resort, Malabar Hill in Weligama, with a menu unveiling his signature coastal Indian cuisine which utilises a modern touch, highlighting locally sourced ingredients and produce. “I look at what is available locally in terms of sourcing. I like to use local produce, so even though I have a core menu that I think of, I always incorporate local influences.”
When it comes to devising a menu for pop-up events such as the exclusive dinner on March 9, Hari has many considerations, the foremost being the clientele. “It’s not always what I want to cook. It’s more about what people could enjoy, and I look at who’s coming and I tailor my food according to that. At the end of the day, it’s all about what food people like. I’ve started to think differently as I’ve matured as a chef.”
For his masterclass the next day, Hari is thinking of executing a different take on the street foods of India, such as the hugely popular chaat, a savoury treat of fried dough with other ingredients such as potatoes, chickpeas, and spices, accompanied by different chutneys and yoghurt.