Old canal springs back to life
Khlong Ong Ang and its community were until recently crowded, cramped and dirty, writes Supoj Wancharoen
Gazing at the footpaths freshly laid with asphalt, it’s hard to remember just how crowded the banks of Khlong Ong Ang were, or how much of a rabbit warren the cramped Saphan Lek market was as it encroached upon and blotted out the canal’s vista for decades.
Khlong Ong Ang is one of the oldest remaining canals in Bangkok, which once prided itself on the title “Venice of the East”.
Today, something of its former past is returning as the pleasant waterway is being restored by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration, to the delight of many locals.
“Today we go back in time,” Bangkok governor Sukhumbhand Paribatra said as he presided over the Loy Krathong festival at Khlong Ong Ang on Nov 25.
Backed by the National Council for Peace and Order, City Hall managed to hold a Loy Krathong festival for the first time in decades at Khlong Ong Ang.
Recently about 500 illegal stalls in the popular toy market were demolished and landscape improvements started. Garbage was sorted out and the water in the canal treated, just in time for the festival.
It marked another success in City Hall’s efforts to return public space to the public.
Prasit Viboonkitpatana, a resident in a community who joined the event, said the Loy Krathong festival at Khlong Ong Ang on Nov 25 was a historic event.
“Now, we can let fresher air fill our lungs as strong smells from the water have gradually faded away with conditions being improved,” he added.
Previous generations living near Khlong Ong Ang floated their krathong in the canal, but once stalls at the market spilled over and encroached along the canal’s banks, it became too narrow, Mr Prasit said.
Local residents were also concerned that the poor water quality in the canal would be further polluted by hundreds of floats, he added.
At this year’s festival, four platforms were created between Saphan Damrongsathit and Saphan Han to provide easy access to the canal for people to release their floats.
“I really enjoyed the event. The atmosphere was fantastic. Activities were great for everyone. We are looking forward to next year,” Mr Prasit said, adding the Loy Krathong celebration helped bring back old community traditions and restore ties between people and the canal.
Hundreds of visitors were enthralled by a wide range of recreational activities and entertainment that had been laid on for the occasion.
Vendors at Saphan Lek Market were invited to sell their wares to renew their connection with buyers.
People were seen strolling along the footpaths on both sides of the canal with live music in the background.
Many enjoyed browsing and buying things at designated stalls. Some enjoying dazzling shows, mostly cultural performances and folk music.
Mr Prasit noted the excitement generated by the Loy Krathong festival had faded among residents over the years and it was a great idea for the authorities to try and revive the festival mood at the canal.
Residents living near and along the canal were completely behind the move to reclaim public areas and improve the city’s scenery.
He said the stalls at the old market nearby were a serious fire risk and would prevent any fire engines reaching the community if a blaze broke out.
Resident Phitsamai Jaiman said the newly restored area is pleasing to the eye as things are now in order.
Mostly importantly, she found the water in the canal no longer smells bad and had become clearer after being diverted through nearby canals.
“It was an excellent idea to hold a Loy Krathong festival in such a lovely location. I have travelled far and wide to take part in similar events. But I was delighted to be part of one in my locality,” she said.
She noted residents usually celebrated the Loy Krathong festival on the Chao Phraya River near Phra Phuttha Yodfa Bridge, or at the Golden Mount.
She hoped the authorities would continue to hold cultural events along the canal, and make the Loy Krathong festival there an annual event.
The festival represents a close bond between people and the river and allows people to respect the Goddess of Water, she explained.
“I enjoyed the opportunity to be part of a tradition. I’m so happy living close to an open space,” Ms Phitsamai said.
There was a feeling that once the clean up had been completed and Saphan Lek Market demolished that community life would become more subdued, Mr Prasit said.
He urged authorities to bring back a sense of life and enjoyment to the area, saying green spaces should be added which allow people to sit back and relax at weekends and do creative activities.
Wisuth Lertsuphanimitre, 76, said the canal community has a long history.
He claims a big tree called Phaya Suttayabun was planted during King Rama V’s reign, signifying that the community is more than a century old.
Anthropologist Srisakra Vallibhotama said he agreed with the idea of revitalising communities along the river and canals as they are an indispensable part of Bangkok life.
He urged the BMA to do the same in other communities close to the waterways and to seek the involvement of residents in any future plans, which is crucial for the success of any restoration work.
But for sustainable restoration plans to work, Mr Srisakra said authorities should take cultural aspects into account rather than just economic ones, and focus on promoting a human connection to the environment and resources.
MR Sukhumbhand thanked residents for their cooperation which he said played a crucial role in making the Loy Krathong festival a success.
“It has been exiting seeing so many people enjoying Khlong Ong Ang’s first fair. What a fantastic way to show off our beautiful open spaces down on the canals in the city, and what a great opportunity for amateur performers to perform cultural shows and share their talents with people visiting from across the city,” MR Sukhumbhand said.
City Hall plans to introduce recreational activities in the area, the governor said.
Buildings would be renovated to become guesthouses, he said, adding he would encourage vendors to open restaurants and coffee shops in the area to promote tourism.
“That would help generate income for people in the community,” MR Sukhumbhand said.