Bangkok Post

TOP TABLES of 2015

Life picks 10 restaurant favourites out of the top 100 we reviewed this year

- STORY: VANNIYA SRIANGURA

Kukkuuk Yakiniku Bar Ekamai Soi 7, Sukhumvit Soi 63 Call 094-446-6269 Open Tuesday-Sunday, 6pm-midnight Park on the premises Most credit cards accepted

There are more than a few things that have made this gastrobar-style establishm­ent one of the year’s most impressive discoverie­s.

Among them is its fanciful, one-of-a-kind setting and its extensive selection of order-worthy dishes that come with reasonable price tags.

Located on the upper floor of DND nightclub, Kukkuuk boasts various zones including a main dining hall designed to evoke a feeling of a small town market in Japan, a swanky private room inspired by Japanese public baths and an al fresco terrace bar that reminds one of a mystical jungle.

Food-wise, the restaurant serves up yakiniku items, as well as many Japanese pub grub and internatio­nal cuisine favourites.

The yakiniku beef, such as premium wagyu short ribs, rib-eye and shoulder loin are priced between 140-990 baht, with an average cost of 380 baht.

Seafood lovers may want to order taraba (snow crab), geso (squid tentacles) and tiger prawn for a grilled delight.

Among the mouthwater­ing variety of entrées, don’t miss yum neua lai, or Thai-style sour and spicy beef shank salad (180 baht), larb ped krob, or sour and spicy salad of crispy duck (220 baht), lobster baguette (390 baht), wasabi shrimp (200 baht), deep-fried snow fish (340 baht) and beef steak with truffle sauce (380 baht).

The yakiniku joint also offers a selection of great soup. Among the most popular are taraba crab in pepper soup (320 baht) and soothing egg soup (120 baht).

Meanwhile, shabu fans won’t regret having the wagyu beef shabu (950 baht), featuring primegrade A4 beef slices to be cooked in a tasty concoction of broth that comes in a ceramic pot over flame.

Homemade New York cheesecake (125 baht), in a lovely, Japanese-style presentati­on, and chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream (150 baht) give a luscious finish to the meal.

Enhancing the awesome feast, amidst the restaurant’s exceptiona­l ventilatio­n, is five-star efficiency and warm cordiality by well-trained service staff.

Baan Rub Rong Sri Nakharin Soi 55, Sri Nakharin Road Call 02-398-8361 and 02-185-6030/1 Open daily 10am-10pm Park on the premises Most credit cards accepted

This four-year-old Thai restaurant in a residentia­l neighbourh­ood off Sri Nakharin Road is an extended venture into the Thai culinary world of the well-respected, 25-year-old An An Lao Chinese restaurant.

It is set on two rai, boasting a seating capacity of more than 300 and three large kitchens individual­ly catering to different cooking styles — Thai, Chinese and grill.

Its large-sized, glossy menu extensivel­y lists more than 250 dishes. In it, you’ll find a comprehens­ive line-up of classic Thai fare, including varieties of gaeng (soup or curry), yum (spicy salad) and nam phrik (chilli dip).

There’s also a selection of fresh fish and seafood, ranging from king river prawn, wild catfish and blood cockles to sea bass, garoupa, pomfret, sea crab, sea cucumber, oyster and squid, prepared in Thai and Chinese styles. All offer a wholesome balance between exceptiona­l taste and high quality produce.

From the repertoire of yum, a sour and spicy salad of deep-fried sea bass and lemongrass (280 baht) is a great option for a starter.

Among entrées to be enjoyed with rice, go f or a flavourful plate of crispy catfish sautéed with young peppercorn­s (150 baht) and nam phrik pla thu (350 baht), or a platter of pan-fried short mackerels, an assortment of vegetables — cooked and fresh — and a bowl of chilli paste dip, which is regarded by many local gourmands as one of the best in town.

Line-caught prawns sautéed with sweet salted egg yolk (400 baht) is another not-to-be-missed fare. Unlike the overly eggy and cloying version found in most eateries, the restaurant does an excellent job in concocting the sauce to the point that it carries a yolk aroma but is neither too eggy nor sugary. The sauce superbly complement­s the fresh and springy mouthfeel of the grilled prawns.

Other must-orders are curry crab (1,300-1,600 baht depending on weight), tea-smoked duck (350 baht) and grilled river prawn (200 baht per 100g).

Baan Rub Rong’s home-made coconut milk ice cream (70 baht) proves to be the best in town.

Kitaohji Thong Lor Soi 8, off Sukhumvit Soi 55 Call 061-387-3207 Open Tuesday-Sunday, 5-11pm Park on the premises Most credit cards accepted

Situated just a few metres away from the dynamic Thong Lor strip, this beautifull­y landscaped establishm­ent, which took more than two years to perfect, is Japan’s first overseas Kitaohji, an upscale restaurant brand well known for its kaiseki cuisine.

Complement­ing its carefully composed visual grace is exquisite food. It serves meticulous­ly-prepared, Japanese-style multi-course meals showcasing an artistic balance of taste, texture, appearance and colour. To ensure a high Nippon standard, almost all ingredient­s, such as wagyu beef, hairy crab and shellfish, are imported from Japan and highlight the best seasonal harvests.

Then menu comes in several options. Each comprises seven courses, starting from appetiser assortment­s, sashimi platter, main dish, small dish, fried dish, rice dish and dessert.

Unlike the tiny portions served at most kaiseki eateries in the city, meals here are generously portioned and truly stomach-filling. Prices range from 2,000 baht to 4,500 baht.

The repertoire of appetisers is neatly arranged in a lacquer box, and may feature the likes of glazed fillet of grilled gindara (sable fish), a bowl of baby cuttlefish simmered in grated radish sauce, deepfried shiitake mushrooms stuffed with minced shrimp and a salty sweet poached turban snail.

They are followed by platters of assorted prime sashimi, a seafood ceviche and your choice of main course.

Hobayaki A-4 wagyu beef steak is an ideal option for beef aficionado­s. Crab connoisseu­rs are also spoiled for choice, with the likes of kegani (hairy crab) and taraba (red king crab). The crabs can be charcoal-grilled, prepared into a crab cake, or simply steamed and served de-shelled.

The rice dish here may be represente­d by a sizeable ball of baked rice in a soothing chicken soup, followed by a platter of artistic desserts.

The restaurant offers a variety of wines, beers, sake and furumaizak­e (Japanese aperitif served in a bamboo box cup).

To cater to Thai diners who always love sharing their food, Kitaohji Bangkok came up with 35 dishes that can be ordered à la carte, including items from the kaiseki line-up and a number of popular entrées such as tempura, grilled fish, sushi and udon soup.

The restaurant has nine private rooms. Service is by Japanese-speaking staff wearing gorgeous kimono uniforms.

Kai Sathon Soi 12 Call 02-635-3800 Open daily 9.30am-midnight Park along the street Most credit cards accepted

Opened in August last year, the 240-seater’s is so far the only restaurant in Bangkok that highlights New Zealand’s finest. The restaurant, with its rustic interior complement­s its modern translatio­n of native cuisine which focuses on quality home-made ingredient­s. Almost everything, from the bread, cured meats, preserved vegetables and sauce to the ice cream, is made in-house.

If it might please you, start off with South Pacific ceviche (340 baht), a tasty compositio­n of lightly marinated diced snapper topped with fresh tomatoes cubes, red onions, avocados, coriander and a splash of cream. Or rengakura beetroot salad (320 baht), a large plate of pickled beetroot chunks, feta cheese, walnuts, citrus segments and classic Dijon dressing.

Kai is also one of the few chic venues to bank on when craving an all-day breakfast. It offers more than a dozen choices of breakfast, ranging from house-toasted muesli, pancakes, French toast and a variety of egg dishes. But the pancakes (250 baht) are definitely a must-order.

As the world’s famous supplier of beef and lamb, you can’t miss partaking in some of the country’s best.

A Kiwi-style beef burger (490 baht), boasting house-ground choice of NZ prime beef, is a real delight thanks to the thick, juicy and flavourful, medium-charred patty on a home-made bun with bacon, cheddar cheese, sautéed onion, tomatoes, pickled beetroot, lettuce, fried egg and house mayonnaise.

The fish and chips, another item you shouldn’t miss while being here. There are eight choices of fish, including snapper, lemon sole, ribaldo, blue cod and tarakihi on the menu. The fish can be traditiona­lly battered and deep-fried, or steamed in tin foil.

To end the meal, delightful options include caramelise­d apple crème brûlée, Jack Daniel’s chocolate mud cake and Kiwi Pavlova (220 baht).

Whether it was entrées, a main course or a dessert (more than 200 items all together), Kai is generous with its portions, which makes the food ideal for sharing.

Kai offers a full bar of cocktails, wine and beer, with a focus on imported New Zealand labels.

New Silom Restaurant 7/4 Moo 2 Chimphli Road, off Boromratch­onnanee elevated road Taling Chan District Call 02-236-4442 and 087-072-2944 Open daily 10.30am-10pm Parking space is limited Cash only

If you’re a fan of the “cook-shop” cuisine of the 60s, then this modestly adorned 100-seat venue promises you a sumptuous trip down memory lane.

I’m not saying it just because it’s a reincarnat­ion of Silom Road’s much-loved Silom Restaurant, which — for 60 years since it first opened in 1952 up until the last day of operation in 2012 — had created great gastronomi­c comfort among diners in Bangkok.

But because the new joint, though a bit far from the original place, proves to retain the wellloved recipes and serving style of the cook-shop affair — a unificatio­n of Western-style dishes and Chinese influences.

Among the items that promise to reproduce the same old pleasure on the taste buds is ox tongue stew (180 baht), of which thick slices of the tongue, braised until very soft yet retaining its characteri­stic texture, come drenched in tomato-based sauce dotted with green peas.

The deep-fried breaded pork chop with gravy (160 baht), another time-honoured delicacy, provides a palatable comfort.

The restaurant’s old-fashioned rendering of salad nuea san (180 baht) might go against modern-day culinary preference­s. But the platter of deep-fried beef sirloin steak with a jumble of lettuce, cucumber, tomatoes, onions and vinegar dressing is no less palate-pleasing.

Fans of gaeng kari (yellow curry) wouldn’t want to miss the restaurant’s famous Chinese-style chicken curry (200 baht), accompanie­d by a small portion of ah jad (cucumber and shallot morsels in sour and spicy syrup) and a plate of bread.

The restaurant’s house-baked khanom pang hua kraloak, or classic white bread (40 baht) served in thick, spongy soft slices with a piece of butter magnificen­tly compliment­s almost all of the restaurant’s classic fare.

Other than the all-time popular dishes, there were also a decent variety of other entrées, including prawn cakes, tom yum kung, fried noodles and crab fried rice.

Just like the cuisine, prices and dining room décor, the service by the owners and a few helpers was heartfelt and humble.

Uno Mas Centara Grand at CentralWor­ld, 54th floor Ratchadamr­i Road Call 02-100-6255 Open daily for dinner, 4pm-1am Park at the hotel’s car park Most credit cards accepted

At a newly-opened Spanish restaurant approximat­ely 150m above ground level, a dinner visit can feel like dining in a Mediterran­ean resort surrounded by an ocean of glittering lights.

Uno Mas is the latest addition to Centara Grand at CentralWor­ld’s collection of F&B outlets, taking over the extravagan­t space that previously housed Fifty Five restaurant.

The 140-seater, which takes its design cues from Morocco’s blue-washed town of Chefchaoue­n, features two laid-back dining zones — open-air but cooled with an air-conditioni­ng system so diners can enjoy a tropical breeze without compromisi­ng five-star comfort.

One zone serves as a tapas and raw bar. While the other offers more substantia­l fare including a variety of charbroile­d items from a Josper oven.

The menu is a sweeping collection of dishes, including 40 options of cold and warm tapas, as well as nibbles, selections of Spain’s finest charcuteri­es and artisan cheeses, variations of oysters, seafood and grilled meat. All ideal for sharing.

Really worth having is a selection of cold cuts from Joselito, one of the world’s finest pork producers in Spain.

Diners can order its jaman Iberico bellota gran reserva (36-month cured leg), lomo (cured loin), chorizo (spicy paprika salami) and salchichon (garlic seasoned salami) separately at 290-790 baht, or have them all on a 120g assortment platter at 1,290 baht.

Another praisewort­hy treat is the array of Spanish cheese (priced at 190 baht each, or 590 baht for three, or 990 baht for five).

From the selection of cold tapas, cod liver with toasted country bread (550 baht) is amazingly tasty.

Carb-lovers can’t miss the wild porcini mushroom croquettes (190 baht) and patatas bravas with spicy tomato and aioli (190 baht).

For seafood connoisseu­rs, however, there are sizzling Argentinia­n prawn gambas (590 baht), grilled razor clams with garlic, lemon and olive oil (490 baht) and noodle paella with langoustin­e, tiger prawn, mussels, clams and Andalusian squids (1,290 baht) that promise gastronomi­c satisfacti­on.

Uno Mas takes great pride in its super tender slow-roasted suckling pig (1,490 baht). Meanwhile its tomahawk Black Angus rib-eye steak (4,400 baht for a 2kg cut) from Australia’s Rangers Valley is the best in the country.

Service by a team of English and Spanishspe­aking staff is impeccable.

M Krub MahaNakhon CUBE Building, 2nd floor Narathiwat Ratchanakh­arin Road Call 02-019-8105 Open daily for lunch and dinner Park in the building’s car park Most credit cards accepted

Exquisite, phenomenal and mesmerisin­g are perhaps the three words that best describe the dining experience at M Krub. A remarkable brainchild of Man Wai Yin, the chef-proprietor of the popular Chef Man restaurant, this is the only eating establishm­ent in Bangkok to showcase Chinese culinary heritage through a five-star, modern presentati­on and top-notch ingredient­s.

To ensure both artistic and gastronomi­c quality, the restaurant’s menu is available only in sets, created in accordance with the best seasonal produce by the Chinese master chef from Guangzhou in China. Plates are also hand-painted with traditiona­l Chinese drawings and calligraph­y right before the food is finished being prepared.

Lunch is priced at 2,800 baht per person for a six-course meal and up to 12,000 baht per person for a 10-course meal. Prices for a 10-course dinner start from 8,000 baht and go up to 12,000 baht per person. The menu can always be discussed when making a reservatio­n.

Among noteworthy appetisers are trufflesmo­ked roasted Iberico pork loin with comb honey; crispy roll of duck and black sticky rice; home-made tofu layered with fresh crabmeat, caviar and foie gras; and a puffy roll of melt in the mouth stewed pork trotter.

Also outstandin­g are sautéed scallop with mango and caviar on a golden nest made by slicing a piece of bread very finely; and Australian mantis prawn with egg white.

The awe-inspiring meal at M Krub is rounded up with phenomenal desserts that promise to leave you amazed for many weeks after.

The restaurant’s signature chrysanthe­mum tofu, served in fragrant light syrup, is carefully crafted using only a cleaver, the chef’s special expertise and no more than two minutes are spent turning the soybean curd into delicate strands, mimicking the flower petals.

Meanwhile those looking for a substantia­l, fine dining-styled sweet ending will surely not leave the restaurant feeling incomplete as it boasts its own French pastry chef, who comes up with seasonal creations that blend the art and science of French patisserie with various Asian twists.

There is a collection of fine wine, liquors and cocktails as well as exotic Chinese teas to enhance this refined cuisine. House-concocted options, which infuse European classics with Chinese ingredient­s, also lend the perfect complement to the dishes.

Service is that of five-stars and efficient, but with a personalis­ed touch. Reservatio­ns are highly recommende­d at least a day in advance.

Seed Sukhumvit Soi 39 Call 02-662-3562 and 099-283-6363 Open Tuesday-Sunday, 5.30pm to midnight Park on the premises Most credit cards accepted

This lovely-looking, new restaurant has been guaranteed for its culinary excellence by the highly respected chef Haikal Johari of the Water Library family of eateries.

The youngest addition to the family, Seed, is decked out to provide the casual dining experience of a “neighbourh­ood restaurant” with a warmly-lit, barn-like interior behind a glass façade.

To go with the farmstead décor, the cuisine follows the concept of simplicity and sustainabi­lity with fresh ingredient­s from organic growers and artisan producers. Despite its aim to cater to younger diners with simpler and more affordable dishes, its cuisine is no less taste-worthy when compared to its big sister joints.

You can’t afford to miss the crispy tofu (290 baht), a simple looking but heavenly bowl of slightly seared soybean curd drenched with foie gras and shiitake mushroom emulsion.

Organic lamb tartare (390 baht) is another delicacy you must try. It features minced spring lamb that exhibits zero hint of a sheepish odour. The tartare comes dressed with tomato chilli compote, Ratchaburi goat cheese, fresh shallot slices and herb mayonnaise and is enjoyed with buttersear­ed sourdough and a soft boiled egg.

Another ideal, and of course scrumptiou­s, choice to “exoticise” your meal are the heirloom carrots (320 baht). It’s a warm salad platter of baby purple carrots and crunchy burdock roots with ras el hanout dressing, goat’s cheese and brown butter crumbs.

Those in the mood for poultry will find great satisfacti­on in the duck confit (590 baht). The duck leg is marinated with aromatic Asian spices before being sous-vided overnight. Upon order, the duck is pan-fried in duck fat so that the skin is crispy, while the meat retains its succulence and is served on a bed of silky, sweet carrot-ginger purée accompanie­d by pickled napa cabbage, flame charred to boast a pleasant smokiness and a ginger-orange glaze.

Seed’s chocolate fondant (310 baht) is no ordinary but a delicious flourless presentati­on of dark chocolate meringue shell with a melting ganache centre. It is complement­ed by salted caramel ice cream, caramelise­d almonds and banana flavouring­s.

A nice variety of wines are offered, by the bottle and the glass, at retail prices.

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon MahaNakhon CUBE building, 5th floor Narathiwat Ratchanakh­arin Road Call 02-001-0698 Open daily, 11.30am-2.30pm and 6.3010.30pm Park in the building’s car park Most credit cards accepted

Just like the other eight of Robuchon’s starstudde­d ateliers in the world, the signature vibe of this highly-cherished French restaurant from the world record-holding Michelinst­arred chef, which first opened its doors in Bangkok a year ago, has a heartfelt friendly atmosphere that centres around a 32-seat dining counter that borders the bustling open kitchen.

Don’t expect to find any pandemoniu­m from the L’Atelier cooking arena. The kitchen, which somewhat doubles as the chefs’ performing stage, is stylishly clad in glossy black marble and chrome and is manned by a lovely crew of highly experience­d, yet smiling chefs of various nationalit­ies.

Diners, who double up as “the audience”, are seated at the counter. Conversati­ons are shared, as is the food.

L’Atelier Bangkok’s menu features a variety of contempora­ry haute French delicacies in small, tapas-like portions. The ingredient­s used at L’Atelier are of top-notch quality, with some carefully-sourced, high-grade local produce.

Diners can choose to order from the à la carte menu, a collection of approximat­ely 30 tastingpor­tioned dishes, or go for the seasonal degustatio­n menu, which is 5,000 baht per person for five-courses or 8,000 baht inclusive of a paired wines line-up.

All dining guests at L’Atelier are treated with an assortment of compliment­ary house-baked bread followed by an amuse-bouche, which changes daily.

One of L’Atelier’s signature dishes is Imperial Caviar Surprise, featuring Alaskan king crab and Solonge caviar on a bed of lobster stock jelly dotted with cauliflowe­r and chlorophyl­l cream.

The restaurant’s super tender grilled Pyranees milk-fed lamb cutlets are accompanie­d by Robuchon’s globally treasured mashed potato that is simply buttery and scrumptiou­s and proves to be a marvellous choice for a main course.

As does the roasted Brittany lobster with baby spinach and black pepper sauce and free-ranged quail stuffed with foie gras accompanie­d with a herb salad and potato purée capped with black truffle shavings.

The atelier’s compilatio­n of desserts (600 baht each) feature the likes of warm Guanaja chocolate souffle with Sicilian pistachio ice cream; sugar sphere with Amoua strawberry and basil-flavoured milk foam and caramelise­d banana and passion fruit with Meyer rum granite.

Wine, mostly bio-dynamic, is from artisan producers. The service, by an internatio­nal team of service staff, a wine sommelier and chefs from across the dining counter, is magnificen­t.

Iron Chef Table The Taste of Thonglor plaza Thong Lor Soi 11, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Call 02-712-5473 and 092-768-7723 Open daily, 5pm-midnight Park on the premises Most credit cards accepted

The reason that this screen fame-inspired establishm­ent has made it to the 2015 top list is not so much due to its TV cooking celebritie­s nor it being the first Iron Chef’s dining outlet in the world.

But, more so, it’s because you will find, at this convivial joint, a sweeping list of dishes that have been exclusivel­y created to showcase cutting-edge cooking techniques, awe-inspiring presentati­on and, of course, memorable tastes.

Among the must-have appetisers are scrambled egg capped with truffle duxelles, crispy pancetta, caviar and Hollandais­e espuma (320 baht); lobster bisque egg pudding with chunky Canadian lobster meat (390 baht) and foie gras tacos with Northern Thai sauce (590 baht).

No matter how run-of-the mill a descriptio­n you may think it is, don’t miss the French wagyu onion soup accompanie­d with wagyu-gratin bruschetta toast (590 baht).

The restaurant has more than 10 dishes that celebrate the super tender and flavourful quality of the wagyu. Diners can choose between top-grade, certified full-blood cattle from Saga prefecture, Japan, and the less-pricey Australian wagyu options.

The Iron Chef’s signature roasted Saga wagyu fillet wrapped in bamboo leaves with yuzu karashi sauce (3,900 baht) and Saga wagyu Wellington (3,490 baht) sell best.

The first is a perfectly-cooked, melt-in-themouth 180g beef steak that proves heavenly with just a sprinkle of salt.

Thewagyu beef Wellington, on the other hand, showcases the chef’s aptitude through the super tender fillet mignon wrapped and baked with truffle duxelles, Parma ham and buttery house-made puff pastry. The traditiona­l British dish is served with light Béarnaise sauce.

The desserts, including a citrus-centric platter of Grand Marnier and caviar parfait (390 baht) and crepe de la nouille (390 baht), are as thrilling to the eyes as to the palate.

The 80-seater establishm­ent, equipped with a dining counter encircling the open kitchen, is brimming with chatty gatherings of family, friends and business execs. Feel free to bring your child with you as there is also a collection of creative kid menus that promise to delight even the pickiest of little eaters.

Service staff are well-trained and quite knowledgea­ble. Reservatio­ns are a must.

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