WINE ME DINE ME
MADAME SHAWN THAI 11AM-3PM, 6:30-10:30PM Sukhumvit Soi 49 Yaek 3 Fb.com/madameshawnbkk 02-258-1205
There’s no taste like home at Madame Shawn.
THE SETTING
We were sceptical when we visited Madame Shawn Bangkok, the latest addition to Chef Jittini “Oye” Wangsin’s Thai restaurant empire which was founded in Paris. After all, when it comes to genuine Thai food you can’t get any more authentic than your go-to street vendors. But it’s good news from us. Bringing her brand of Thai food back to Bangkok, Khun Oye stays true to the unique Thai flavour while offering all the perks of European fine-dining.
Oye’s story is a heart-warming one. Hailing from Thailand’s northeastern province of Yasothon, Oye was raised in a humble, food-loving family. Her self-taught culinary skills took her all the way to France, where she opened the first Madame Shawn restaurant with her husband. Why the name? Oye wanted something that sounded international and rolled seamlessly off the French tongue. Mademoiselles and messieurs love Madame Shawn, and now, seven branches of the restaurant operate across Paris alone. As for Oye’s first Thai branch, we think it’s a great find that’s worth the journey deep down the soi.
Situated unassumingly down Sukhumvit Soi 49, Madame Shawn offers a refreshing break from the humdrum of city life. Walking through the door you’ll notice a tasteful melange of Thai and French culture. Suitcases, sideboards and sewing machines are set against a bamboo archway while cerise, lotus-shaped downlights hang from the ceiling amidst funky furnishing.
Comfort is epitomised in the European-styled seating booths which run down the centre of the room. Spacious, quiet and cool, the interior offers a tranquil vibe, perfect for anything from business lunches to night-time, girly get-togethers.
THE MENU
We know that Thai food that is popular abroad can differ from the home-grown flavour. However, by reviving old Thai cooking customs, Oye stays true to her roots. In three words, the food is authentic, inventive and affordable.
While you can still get all the classics, we’d recommend trying Madame Shawn’s funky take on the more traditional dishes instead. We started with the Tom saab kra-dook moo (the hot and spicy pork rib hot pot with Thai Herbs; B120++). This light, fragrant soup had a pleasant tang, but nothing too intense. The pork was perfectly tender, the melt-in-your-mouth kind of feel. To really get to the crux of this dish, gnaw on the soft bone once you’ve finished with the flesh.
Next we tried the Som tum pla ra (spicy green papaya salad with pickled fish; B95). With a handful of rice noodles thrown in the mix, this is an interesting take on the classic. But if you’re a fan of the crunch, don’t fret. With plenty of crispy vegetables, it still packs some punch. However, a word of warning: this dish is spicy, even by Thai standards. If you can’t handle the heat, we suggest you steer clear.
The Parisian palate meets Thai tradition in the Hor mok pla salmon (B240). By swapping Thai fish for salmon, skimping on the coconut cream and adding plenty of herbs, this dish proves a lighter take on the custard-y classic. For salmon fans (Hello? Who isn’t?), this is a winner.
Next was the Spaghetti kang kiew wan goong (spaghetti with Thai green curry and shrimp; B175). Being somewhat of a green curry connoisseur, we thought the flavour was on point. However, we did have a slight complaint. While the prawns and vegetables were cooked perfectly, we thought the pasta was a little underdone.
For dessert, we opted for Panna cotta tub tim grob (B140) served in a glass shot. Topped with coconut cream and adorned with mock pomegranate seeds, this sweet, fruity delight washed away any spicy remnants. The portion size was just right, making for the perfect finale.
INSIDER’S TIP
If you decide to dine at night, we recommend sitting in the outside courtyard. With white lanterns lining the roof and Khun Oye’s personal collection of Thai ornaments adorning the walls, this al fresco option delivers a totally chilledout, night time vibe. Also, be sure to leave room for an espresso. This place does one hell of a good coffee.
VALUE & VERDICT
It’s not often fine dining offers an authentic taste with an affordable price tag. With the set lunch menu starting at a reasonable B259, Madame Shawn is definitely worth a look-in. Just a heads-up: it can be difficult getting to and fro. Like everywhere in Bangkok, the soi is congested at the best of times, but for those who insist on the drive, there are some car spaces out front. That being said, it is worth the journey. You should stop by and welcome home Madame Shawn.