THE SEA, THE SKY, AND A NEW LINE OF MENSWEAR
The Sirivannavari label continues to expand its reach and target audience
The Sirivannavari label keeps tallying up more and more with every collection. Last year it was denim. This year sees the debut of S’Homme, the brand’s first foray into menswear — which also meant a much larger male audience and men’s magazine presence at the fashion show last Wednesday. HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana’s eponymous fashion brand returned to its old stomping ground at Siam Paragon with the familiar stage and orchestra.
When the Royal Bangkok Symphony Orchestra starts to play, it’s more mellow than the memorable music from the last show, when classical symphonies were dappled with drum solos and electric guitar riffs as noticeably bolder looks were sent down the runway. It was a rockin’ show, which gave a mature yet upbeat feel. As the princess is also the music creative director who oversees what will be played during the presentation, the song selection offers insights into her musical taste and preference.
This time, she’s actually wrote and composed it herself. Besides designing the clothes, HRH Princess Sirivannavari also wrote and composed the song Serenity. Using lyrics that were adapted from a poem she wrote in 2016, the story revolves around the love between a gentleman and a goddess, set against the sea, moonlight, shining stars and limitless sky. In other words, the mood is heavily dismal with a touch of longing and tragedy. Although it’s the kind of score that would be a shoo-in soundtrack choice for some multimillion historical epic or fantasy blockbuster, it makes for a runway pacing that must be constantly sluggish, with all models gliding out continuously in a sombre manner.
Not that it makes the clothes depressing, even if the poem serves as the beginning and inspiration for the collection. There is the obvious palette of blue and many different hues of it that reflect the various shades of the ocean and sky.
In the first part of the show, we see a lot of navy dresses with military jackets that the brand is known for. There are also jeans, although always distressed, or dangling with ribbons or punctuated with studs or hole-punches. Casual pieces from Sirivannavari are never just casual — they will always be beaded or exquisitely embroidered with sequins. This time, it’s all under a sea and sky theme, so expect to see crystal embroidered designs packed with stars and starfish. They’re literally everywhere and on everything, albeit in small proportions that give each piece just enough eye-catching sparkle.
There’s more of the same that fans of the brand will be familiar with, such as jackets and collared shapes, but this season, there are capes that can be zipped off mid-body. From all the multilayered techniques needed to create the biker coats and halter tops to flowing dresses, it’s clear that all the clothes aim to make a sweeping statement. It seems like something for a modern-day princess to wear, but she’s not the conservative sort, what with rebellious details like criss-crossing back cut-outs and jeans embellished with a variety of textiles, buttons and patches that make a statement in itself. Paired with the season’s Bijoux and accessories collection, which are laden with freshwater pearls and star motifs, this spring/ summer collection is one that’s ready to hit the beach. On the gown front, we’re treated to stunning and ultra-feminine dresses that are lavishly eye-catching for the embroidery. The brand goes easy on the gold this season, with evening gowns that flaunt fluid layers of draping and dreamy tulle skirts that flutter beautifully as one walks. There are only six looks from S’Homme, which were surprisingly sleek and unadorned. It’s not expected from a label that has its avant-garde side, but with crisp morning suits and clean double-breasted jackets, it’s all in the likelihood that the gents can wear it more often and not have to wait for a big, full-blown event. It’s quite safe where the brand has ventured in the men’s direction, but it’ll be interesting to see if they decide to inject more pizzazz in the future. The poem which inspired this collection can only end tragically because the gentleman must age and die, while the goddess must suffer from heartbreak for eternity. However, the ending of the show was anything but. The Princess came out to thank the crowds at the end, only to go back in and come out again — this time with three giant balloons. She then went on to energetically present each cute smiley balloon to the conductor and two random musicians on the front row. It’s a happy sight that stands out from the dark blue, ocean backdrop and when you see the surprised but genuine smiles of the recipients, it mirrors that of the widely-smiling one on the bright balloons.
The Sirivannavari Spring/Summer 2017 Collection is available at Sirivannavari boutique, 1st floor, Siam Paragon.