INTO THE MIST
Besides its peaceful look, Sukhirin district in Narathiwat has a number of hidden treasures
Thick mist lingers over the lush jungle, blanketing the valley like a white linen sheet. The breeze gently blows out the mist, allowing sunshine to penetrate to the land and jungle below. This is picturesque Sukhirin, nestled in the deep south of Thailand.
“It is either mist or rain that greets us every morning. There is no summer here. The lush jungle keeps the weather quite comfortable all year round,” said Naruphol Yong Prang, against the faint sounds of gibbons echoing in the distance.
I look around and find myself in a peaceful valley, amid dense jungle. The annual rainfall is more than 5,000mm, with the lush tropical forest playing a significant role in maintaining biodiversity and wilderness. Towering trees spread their canopies to get as much sunlight as possible, and at the same time, providing shelter.
Sukhirin is among the most remote districts of Narathiwat, a quiet province at the southernmost corner of Thailand. Winding roads and wilderness makes this district quieter than most. However, it is a cosy home for those who migrated from the drought-stricken Isan plateau to this fertile land.
Naruphol is among a number of Isan people who settled in Sukhirin when the government wanted to secure the border by setting up settlements. The native Sakon Nakhon man moved to Sukhirin in 1975.
“When I moved here, there were only four villages lining the borders. Now, there are eight scattered in this forest and more people are asking to come.”
According to District Chief Officer CPO 2 Anant Boonsamran, under the government’s self development community project each family who settled here in 1965 was given 16-18 rai. With fertile soil and an abundance of water, Sukhirin offered a great chance for the beginnings of a new life. Many fruit orchards have mushroomed among lush forests.
With so many Isan people, it is easy to find Isan cuisine here, particularly som tam. Another surprise is the rocket festival, a local festival of Isan, usually held to appease the rain gods.
“Actually, we do not need to ask for more rain. However, it is the best reason for getting together,” Naruphol said.
Another treasure hidden beneath the soil of Sukhirin is gold. In the jungle, gold is often found. If you travel along the Saiburi River that runs through the district, you might come across gold panners working tirelessly along waterways.
“It is an extra income, but some take it seriously,” he explained. Each gold panner can find up to 5g of gold per day on an average. They earn 6,000-7,000 baht daily.
As evidence that the gold exists, there is an old mining factory situated deep in the forest. The abandoned factory belongs to a French company, which won a concession to run a gold mine a century ago.
Naruphol drives me deep into the jungle, steps away from Thailand-Malaysia border. On another side of the Saiburi River is the entrance to a tunnel built to transport machinery from Malaysia to Sukhirin. The tunnel is no longer in use and is dark, with a collapsed ceiling. Water drips from the walls, feeding ferns and small plants around the shady entrance.
“In 1902, a French company won a concession to operate a gold mine on the site located a few kilometres from the border. Instead of transporting machinery by road, the company took a short cut by digging this 100m-long tunnel and moved heavy machines through the site,” Naruphol says. “However, gold cyanidation polluted the river and the mine was officially closed in 1995.”
Dark grey clouds take over the sky. Long white curtains of rain span over the skyline, heading closer. Sukhirin is once again blanked in the mist and rain again. But its treasures remain and await your visit.