A TALE OF TWO CANALS
A melting pot of Buddhist and Muslim cultures, Klong Phra Khanong and Klong Prawet Burirom are a beautiful mix of the natural and supernatural
Though the old way of life and nature in the heart of Bangkok is a rare sight, not far from BTS Phra Khanong is a small pier where one can board passenger boats or hire long-tailed boats to travel to several religious and cultural attractions along two canals — Klong Phra Khanong and Klong Prawet Burirom.
Where Buddhist and Muslim cultures exist in harmony, the 10km Klong Phra Khanong is a zigzagging natural waterway that links Nong Bon Canal and the Chao Phraya River. It was widened by workers under the supervision of Phraya Sriphiphat (Thas Bunnag) between 1837-1840, during the reign of King Rama III.
The 46km Klong Prawet Burirom in Lat Krabang, crisscrossed by more than 60 canals, was dug on the order of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). The digging was directed by the Chao Phraya Surawongwaiyawat (Vorn Bunnag) in 1878-1880 to connect Klong Phra Khanong, Klong Dan and the Bang Pakong River, which flows through Chachoengsao province.
“The first part of Klong Phra Khanong is in Suan Luang district. Suan Luang means ‘royal gardens’ set for growing rice as food supplies for wars. The area near Wat Mahabutr was once a centre of trade and transport. Opposite Wat Mahabutr is an old rice mill reflecting the importance of both sides of Klong Phra Khanong, which were full of rice fields,” said Rapeepat Ketkosol, chief of the Tourism Development Subdivision of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA).
According to Rapeepat, Phra Khanong was previously in the jurisdiction of Muang Nakhon Khuan Khan or Phra Pradaeng, until the reign of King Rama VII when it was merged into Bangkok, while Phra Pradaeng became part of Samut Prakan province.
Wat Mahabutr is surrounded by many trees and it feels like one is in the provinces. This area was previously important because the Phra Khanong District Office was next to the temple during the reign of King Rama VI. The office was relocated to its current location in 1927, following the construction of Sukhumvit Road.
Many Thais feel familiar with the name of the temple since it is where one of the country’s most famous ghost stories — “Mae Nak Phra Khanong” — is set. Many Thais believe this local legend is true and visit the temple to pay respects to the spirit of Mae Nak, who died during childbirth while her husband was serving in the army.
From Wat Mahabutr it is 10 minutes to Wat Yang via the klong. On the way, old houses and various kinds of trees, including napa palms usually found in brackish water in rural areas, mesmerise. Wat Yang was restored by Lao migrants. It is well-known for its principal Buddha statue Luang Phor To and a “condominium-style cemetery”.
On a big curve of the canal is Al Kubror Mosque, the first mosque in Suan Luang district built in the reign of King Rama I by Muslim settlers. According to community leader Saipin Darachai, the early settlers were descendants of war prisoners from Pattani who were brought to the Central Plains during the Ayutthaya period. Some of the warriors were brought here to farm the land while the captured royals were sent to Ayutthaya to ensure they were under close scrutiny.
Apart from visiting the mosque and talking to villagers about local history and their way of life, visitors should try delicious chicken biryani ( khao mok kai) and buy herbal shampoo and conditioner made by local women. Behind the mosque is a cattle ranch. In the past, many Muslims in this area made a living raising cattle.
Half-an-hour downstream took us to the more-thana-century-old Ban Thang Khwai Mosque on the south side of Klong Prawet Burirom. This was named after the path, which was frequented by buffaloes in this former rice farming community.
Stroll along an old-style steel and wooden bridge across the canal to the north side and you’ll reach a gem-cutting house where a craftsman inherited his Persian ancestors’ gem-cutting skills and has been passing them down the generations for more than 30 years
Wat Krathoom Sua Pla, also along Klong Phra Khanong, boasts two museums displaying Buddha statues in 80 different postures and wax figures of more than 10 highly revered monks. Early settlers near the temple and the nearby Wat Khom were prisoners of war from Cambodia, leading to the assimilation of Thai and Khmer culture and art in the area.
To promote tourism along Klong Phra Khanong and Klong Prawet Burirom, local community groups have been working to organise and co-ordinate tours continually. The BMA’s tourism division has been supporting the groups by coaching them to become local guides and learn from other communities and direct experiences. It also plans to organise seminars and talks to encourage locals to do research about local history.