THE INNOCENT ISLE
Sri Lanka may be a work in progress, but its relative lack of development means many of its charms remain unspoiled
Acountry just beginning to realise its tourism potential can be a wonderful place to visit. You can enjoy its natural delights free of the scams and overcrowding associated with more famous destinations that have had their charms tainted by the very industry that first put them on the map. Sri Lanka is one such place. The teardrop-shaped island south of India is enjoying a tourism boom as travellers embrace its natural beauty and its people’s innate attentive hospitality, so far unsullied by a relentless pursuit of the tourist dollar.
Now is a great time to visit, and perhaps you should do so before the secret gets out much further. Tourist arrivals have quadrupled since 2009, when the 26-year civil war between the central government and the secessionist Tamil Tigers came to an end.
The conflict is thought to have claimed more than 100,000 lives, but Sri Lanka has largely remained peaceful since the Tigers conceded defeat and the government of Mahinda Rajapaksa reclaimed control of the whole country.
>> Nowadays, the statistics make for happier reading, with the Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority reporting more than two million tourist arrivals in 2016.
MULTIPLE DELIGHTS
Visitors are attracted to Sri Lanka for many reasons, but most obviously its natural attractions, multicultural society, excellent value for money, warm hospitality and delicious food.
Geographically, the island is verdant and diverse. Its landscapes range from the postcard-perfect white sand beaches which flank most of the coastline, to pristine jungle and tea-clad hills in the interior. Wildlife is abundant, and visitors may even be lucky enough to spot blue whales off the southern coast, or leopards roaming in the various national parks.
Thais will find common ground in Sri Lanka, as both countries have Theravada Buddhism as their major faith. Some 70% of Sri Lankans identify as Buddhist, but it’s a secular and tolerant state, with large Muslim, Hindu and Christian communities.
The island’s rich multiculturalism can be seen in its historic architecture, from religious grounds to colonial buildings. The nation has six Unesco World Heritage sites, including the ancient cities of Kandy and Sigiriya, and the old town of Galle and its fortifications.
Accommodation suits all budgets, from guesthouses and homestays up to plush resorts and five-star hotels.
Staying in a small, family-owned guesthouse or homestay allows you to experience genuine Sri Lankan hospitality. You can taste local, home-cooked meals such as honey hoppers (a pancake-like dish made from rice or wheat flour) for breakfast, lavariya string hoppers (steamed rice noodles) with kiri hodi (a rich coconut milk-based curry).
If you prefer a more international style hotel, the Mountain View Residency — which boasts an average score of 9.1/10 on www.booking.com — in Kandy offers exceptional value for money at US$35 (1,120 baht) per night for two beds or $60 for four beds. You will certainly experience a warm welcome, and genuine hospitality and attentiveness from host Indika and his wife.
This exceptional hospitality is a standout feature of any trip to Sri Lanka. Warmth and friendliness is deeply ingrained in the cultural values of its people, from tuk-tuk drivers to owners of posh hotels. Police harassment of foreigners is said to be non-existent.
Food is delicious and very affordable, especially compared to popular tourist areas in more established desinations such as Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore. A chicken curry and rice dish at a mid-range restaurant may cost as little as 200 Sri Lankan rupees (42 baht), or a family can enjoy a multi-course dinner, including drinks, for around 500 baht.
Balaji Dosai restaurant on GDS Senanayake Veediya Road in Kandy is a locals’ favourite, offering simple but delicious curries, fried rice and chapatis. A few blocks away, Nagalingam’s Bravan vegetarian restaurant offers homemade roti and curry for just 25 baht.
A can’t miss Sri Lankan dish is spicy devilled chicken, and of the best examples of this can be found in Francis restaurant on Hrimbura Road in Galle.
RECOMMENDED ITINERARY
1. Start in Negombo, a resort town in Sri Lanka’s western coast, about an hour’s drive from Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport. It is famous for fishing boats and lagoons. Take a boat ride to explore wetland eco- tourism in Negombo lagoon.
2. Heading south, stop off midway between Colombo and Galle for a swim at unspoiled Bentota beach. While in Bentota, also pay a visit to its sea turtle sanctuary and hatcheries, an eco- tourism project partially supported by the Sri Lankan government.
3. Continue on south to Galle and explore Galle Fort, a Dutch colonial construction nearly four centuries old. From the top you can capture fantastic views of Galle city. Set off early the next morning for a six- hour whale and dolphin- watching tour off the southwestern coast. You will also spot Sri Lanka’s famous stilt fishermen along the way.
4. Head back north via the island’s interior to Kandy, Sri Lanka’s second city. Visit the Temple of the Tooth Relic to witness the strong faith of Buddhist devotees, and the Kandyan Cultural Centre to view local dancing and drumming. Sri Lanka’s iconic performing art is staged at 5pm, with tickets priced at just over 200 baht per person. The next day, visit Udawaththa Kale, a 104-hectare forest boasting a great variety of plant species and wild animals, and a world-famous birdwatching destination. As well as a great variety of birds, expect to encounter macaques, deer, wild boar and perhaps a snake or two.
5. Finally, as you make your way back to Colombo, the commercial capital, for your flight home, make sure to visit the New Paradise Spice Garden and the Geragama tea factory to learn about Sri Lanka’s signature crops.
NEED TO KNOW
A good time to visit Sri Lanka is from January to March when the Hill Country and west and south coast beaches are driest and busiest. However, with beds in demand, prices normally peak. May to August should be avoided due to the monsoon season which brings dengue fever.
To get around in Sri Lanka, hiring a personal driver is a great idea considering public transport is often overcrowded. Most drivers are very knowledgeable and determined to ensure their guests are satisfied, no matter what the request.
Although Sri Lanka is enjoying a tourism boom, the country has many challenging tasks lying ahead. Eco- tourism is being promoted due to the island’s spectacular scenery and abundant wildlife, but a lack of a good waste management programme is posing problems, particularly in beach areas.
Public toilets are scarce, and the few western-style flush toilets which can be found are often used as are litter bins. The government is also working hard to develop Colombo as a world- class destination but the city presently lacks the character of other parts of the country. Sri Lanka’s main airport, Bandaranaike International, needs major renovation and extension and its staff need to be trained in a more efficient manner to meet the demands of the increasing numbers of international tourists.
However, part of the magic of a visit to this unique destination is the sense that it is a work in progress and that tourism is seen as an exciting part of the country’s future, unlike more sophisticated but jaded countries. The warmth of the sun is only exceeded by the warmth of the people.