NET CLOSING IN ON SEAFOOD’S FUTURE
As the catch gets smaller, fishermen become more reckless in what they take
Just last month I visited Wonnapa beach in Bang Saen, Chonburi. We drove past a seller who was busy arranging her freshly caught puma (blue crab). Priced at 150 baht per kg, it was cheaper than what you would see elsewhere. But these crabs are tiny and apparently not worth all the cleaning, cracking open and picking to get at the small amount of meat. Furthermore, buying them means you are supporting the fishermen to catch immature animals.
The commercial fishing industry nowadays seems less concerned with preserving natural resources. The amount of sea animals has declined sharply, yet people still try to catch whatever they can sell, including immature fish and crustaceans. This affects the whole species as they are removed from the life cycle before they have a chance to reproduce.
Some three decades ago on Wonnapa beach, almost all villagers relied on shore fishing, using methods suitable for their economic wellbeing. Wealthy fishermen made the po, an area in the sea surrounded by a fence made from bamboo sticks and fine-mesh fishing net. Fish swim into the po through an entrance that goes in the same direction with sea currents. When there are enough fish in the po, the fishermen would go in with their boats and take the fish, crabs and prawns in there. Owning a po is neither easy nor affordable but it’s worth it. The bamboo fences have to be routinely replaced, but the old, worn out bamboo usually has a lot of mussels stuck to them, and these too can be harvested.
The majority of fishermen can’t afford a po and therefore head out to the sea with their seine. Different types of seine are used for prawns, crabs, fish or squid. The best time to catch each species also differs.
Fishermen would go out during the day to cast their net. While they wait, they fish. No bait is required. A lead bullet sinker is tied to each line. Fishermen pull the line up and down (it is called to soag in Thai).
With help from sunlight, the bullet sinker under the water looks like tiny fish. Mistaken for its prey, larger fish such as yellow stripe trevally (they look similar to mackerels) would take the bait. In an hour, you may get a basket full of them.
You may also see a school of pla ku lae. This close cousin of herring belongs to the genus Sardinella and family Clupeidae. No matter what kind of sea animals they are catching, fishermen always take with them the seine to catch pla ku lae. It’s a lucky day if they see the fish coming. Pla ku lae are perfect for sun-drying. The fish is cut up and smeared with salt before being laid out in the sun.
Pla ku lae can also be served raw with spicy sauce made from pounded fresh chilies, lime juice and fish sauce. Fishermen at sea have all the cooking utensils needed: stove, pot, rice, water and charcoal. What they cook is what they caught only a little while ago. The fish may be grilled or eaten raw.
Fishermen don’t seem to get bored of sea fish. Some wouldn’t even crave for pork, chicken or beef. Some sea fish, however, are not popular for eating. “Worthless” ones such as catfish (sea catfish) are strong. Even when stuck in the seine they can cut it open with the bony plates on their heads. These plates contain dangerous poison. Fishermen usually beat them to death with a piece of wood, then throw the dead fish in the sea. Pla ta krab or spotted scats (some call green scats) are rather small and slim. They live in schools and dwell especially near concrete ports for docking large fishing ships. Those vessels usually park for quite some time. Fishermen cook and eat on their ships and throw leftovers into the sea, attracting spotted scats. But these fish are not good for eating as they are small and have thick skin. Spotted fish are just like toys for kids who fish at the ports. They don’t really have a significant commercial value.
Being a fisherman nowadays requires more effort as sea animals are more scarce and smaller in size. Some formerly “worthless” species such as the sea catfish or spotted scats are now being caught as there are not many choices left.
Consumers who are concerned about the future of seafood can definitely help by not buying immature sea animals. Good quality farmed fish raised in seawater or brackish water are readily available. They may not be 100% “wild” but at least they are fresh. And buying them means you help shaping the future of real seafood by giving them time to grow.