CORNUCOPIA
Classic kitchen utensils are enjoying a new lease on life
Classic kitchen utensils of our forefathers, beautiful enamelware enjoys renewed popularity.
In a trend-driven world, enamelware remains a classic.
Historic markets are the latest tourism sensation, bringing the past back to life. You may be able to read about old markets in texts, but experiencing it in person is a different experience. With demand for the good old days on high, many markets are quick to respond and become the new travel destination.
A market worth visiting has a few key elements — shops selling vintage merchandise, and agricultural and fishery tools, traditional barber shops, old pharmacies carrying traditional herbs people still find useful, classic noodle shops and coffee shops that make their fare in cylinder-shaped cloth bags. Old markets must also have sho huay, shops selling an array of everyday items where traditional kitchen utensils are found.
Every sho huay should carry beautiful enamelware, the classic kitchen utensils of our forefathers.
Let’s have a look at the background of enamelware in Thais’ daily life. In many major cities across Thailand, those 80 years old or above will have seen these vintage objects. People from all walks of life used enamelware for an array of purposes.
Enamelware was first imported from Sweden from the brand Kockum. They would come in the form of plates, bowls, teapots, pitchers, mugs, spoons, basins, pintos (layered foundation food containers), spittoons, funnels and several others.
Most come in pale cream and lined with a green or dark blue rim.
Enamelware was not only used in households, but in temples and hospitals. Enamel trays were used for holding medical equipment, while enamel jars were used for storing clean gauze pads. Temples had enamelware similar to those found in households. Later on, enamelware imported from China — particularly in Shanghai — entered the market. They were priced cheaper, and came in signature floral and colourful prints. Objects came in many sizes and pintos. Chinese-style enamelware was chosen based on the occasion it was used for. For example, floral trays were commonly used for placing offerings in religious ceremonies. Many khao tom shops (shops serving boiled rice with a variety of side dishes) also like to put food in these types of trays.
One of the most common utensils for high-ranking priests was Chinese-style spitting pots with floral prints and horn-like tops. Later down the line, local enamelware was made and spread across Thailand. The most famous brands were “Rabbit”, “Aeroplane” and “Sparrow”. They came in light yellow, white, dark blue and green.
Enamelware grew popular due to its convenience, durability and stylish look. Plus, it was easy to clean. Its excellent heat retention also made it a good option for long cooking procedures. The one downside was, however, that the material chipped easily.
Cheaper and more durable enamelware later entered the market. Over time, aluminium, plastic and stainless steel replaced enamel, rendering it obsolete.
Today, the appeal of enamelware has been renewed. Ran kao gaeng (rice and curry shops) have been replacing their aluminium pots with enamel ones. Classic, dark blue enamel pots bring back old memories and help enhance a shop’s homey image.
Enamel containers serve several occasions, from cooking to portioning ingredients beforehand, whether in the kitchen at home or in the restaurant.
For diners, enamelware looks clean and attractive, their beauty suiting the dinner table perfectly.
Le Creuset pots from France are examples of enamelware that come with a premium price. They are of very good quality.
If you search for enamelware on Amazon or eBay, you will see a correlation between the age of the product and the price — the older it gets, the more expensive it is.
Chipped enamelware can still be used. In a way, the crack can come to represent the value of having served cooks and diners for years.
As enamelware becomes trendy again, Thai manufacturers of local brands — Rabbit, Airplane and Alligator — have got their production lines up and running again. This time, they’re offering more variety, from colour to prints.
Old markets have become patronised by fresh faces, largely tourists seeking a throwback to the good old days.
Collectors are on the hunt for the Swedish classic Kockum brand again. These can still be found in traditional everyday item shops.
As time goes by, the value of enamelware increases. Next time you visit a historic market, be sure to check out the charm of classic enamelware.