LAMB SHANKS, SWEETLY SPICED, READY FOR SPRING

Earthy lamb shanks are worthy vehicles for any number of seasonal flavours and preparations

Sturdy, earthy lamb shanks are worthy vehicles for any number of seasonal flavours and preparations, whether a dark mix of mushrooms and red wine, or lighter, brighter citrus notes. Personally, I like them boiled. Well, not boiled exactly, but simmered in a pot of water on the stove. You may have been taught that lamb shanks must first be browned, then slowly braised — a fine way to cook them. But you can also get wonderful results skipping that first step. For instance, I have seen some recipes that call for a single lamb shank added to a long-cooked vegetable soup, just as you would with a ham hock or a few chicken legs to add meatiness.

But for something bigger — a hearty main course — I first season the shanks with salt and pepper, cover them with water in a large pot, toss in a few aromatics, and let it all simmer gently for an hour and a half or so, until the meat is tender. In the process, the water becomes a delicious broth, which is then used to make a sauce.

However, a whole, bone-in shank on a dinner plate can look gargantuan, even intimidating. So, once the shanks are tender, I like to pull the cooked meat off. The finished dish, thus tamed, can seem more civilised, less Stone Age. You can do this several hours before completing the dish, up to a day or two in advance.

Rather than a deep, wintry braise, I wanted something lighter for the beginning of spring. Opting for orange and honey, along with a few sweet spices, like clove, coriander and a touch of saffron, seemed right. The zest of one orange, peeled in wide strips, and a half-cup of orange juice proved to be plenty for an intense back note. A splash of white wine also supplied acidity.

A shower of freshly snipped herbs — dill, mint, parsley, basil — brightens the dish just before serving. A bouquet of butter-steamed spring vegetables (carrots and turnips for now, peas and asparagus tips soon) is a welcome accompaniment.

SPICED LAMB SHANKS WITH ORANGE AND HONEY INGREDIENTS:

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Total time: About 2 ½ hours

For the lamb shanks:

6 meaty lamb shanks (about 6 pounds total)

Salt and pepper

½ tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp fennel seeds

½ tsp coriander seeds

1 large onion, cut into thick slices

2 whole cloves

1 thyme sprig

1 bay leaf

For the sauce:

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, diced (about 1 ½ cups)

Salt and pepper

1 tsp minced garlic

Pinch saffron

Pinch cayenne 1 tbsp tomato paste

2 tbsp honey

Zest of 1 orange, peeled into wide strips

½ cup orange juice

½ cup white wine

1 tbsp arrowroot or cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tbsp cold water

For serving:

2 tbsp butter

1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch batons

1 pound turnips, peeled and cut into wedges Salt

2 tbsp roughly chopped parsley

2 tbsp roughly chopped mint

2 tbsp roughly chopped dill Handful of small basil leaves