LIVING THE DREAM
The fantasy of Parisian tea time is epitomised at Cafe Antonia
Paris may not be as famed for the art of afternoon tea as the UK, but that doesn’t mean it ’s not worth your while. If you’re in the City of Lights and have a craving for some top-notch tipple time, make it at Cafe Antonia, housed inside the palatial hotel Le Bristol. The cafe may be named after Queen Marie Antoinette (her mother called her Antonia as a child), but crowds from all circles seem to be drawn to this airy eatery that offers drinks, sandwiches and afternoon tea. There’s not even that many tourists, but rather, a large number of locals, be it office men, fashionable Parisians or senior women who come for their delightful high tea sets. Make sure you can afford to dilly- dally, as it takes almost 40 minutes for the food to finally arrive. However, if you’re in no rush, there is possibly no better place to sit and sip your tea, as the classic French decor and views of the garden square outside set the tone for a perfect afternoon of chit- chatting or people watching. With its open- air arrangement, one can clearly see the refined types that waltz in and out of the hotel lobby — this too can fulfil one’s fantasy of sitting in a Parisian sidewalk cafe to people- watch. An establishment this classy does not always have to come with a stifling atmosphere, and it almost feels like all the nice, non- judgemental people of Paris have come to provide a very friendly and attentive service at Cafe Antonia. Despite its Louis furnishings, the space feels lush in an understated way, where the tapestries, tasselled curtains and grand portraits don’t swamp you. In fact, take this time to study the menu, which has comprehensive titbits about art pieces around the hotel, as well as a massive portrait of the cafe’s namesake- muse by Francois- Hubert Drouais. The painting is an original from the 1700s and is only one among the hotel’s prized private collection of artwork.
There is one main high tea set: € 60 (2,300 baht) for one and €85 for two. It’s a long wait, but all impatience will dissolve the second one sinks one’s teeth into the perfectly toasted sandwiches. The French clearly know what they’re doing with food, and the savoury bites here are some of the best and most flavourful sandwiches I’ve ever had for afternoon tea. There is the chicken club sandwich, with
which you can never go wrong. Yet it is the less ubiquitous fillings, such as veal, rocket leaves and Parmesan, that pack a salty and satisfying punch — which also slaps you with the question: what subpar rubbish have you been eating all these years? The taste of rich produce is also delightful in the decadent vegetarian offerings, where sun- dried tomato, avocado, dried eggplant and Greek tzatziki intermingle wonderfully with creamy and tangy nibbles. All the while, the bread remains flawlessly crispy even after it’s been sitting for a while. On the second tier, taste the epitome of France’s excellence in the world of desserts. This is, after all, the land of fancy- schmancy pastries, where each piece has half a dozen different textures, four different toppings and at least three visible colours in every bite. Their cakes are insane, but to expect anything less sophisticated would be turning your back to this nation’s well-deserved praise for its knowhow in creating elaborate and meticulous sweets. You’ll get to try different types of photogenic beauties, be it the deliciously crunchy praline eclair that is lush without being overpowering, despite its cream of nuts. Then there is the completely stunning blood-orange cake that has a base of white chocolate and flaunts a beautiful dome on top, also made with cream of blood oranges. Leave the knockout mousse of chocolate for last, as its chocolate flakes on chocolate biscuit on a rich chocolate cream is bound to mute your tongue to all other confections. It’s a pain that you’ll have to share because there’s only one piece each, but you’ll be too busy being grateful you’ve gotten a chance to savour these sublime delicacies by executive pastry chef Julien Alvarez, who’s won awards like World Pastry Champion 2011 and Best Pastry of the Year 2015.
On the top tier, the treats are not as decorative but taste no less exquisite, despite their simplistic appearance. Don’t skip out on their madeleine coated with lemony sugar frosting or the large caramel cookie. Do save some space for the yuzu and nuts-specked scones, which peculiarly come towards the end of the service, after you’ve finished the sweets. A gratifyingly long selection of classic, aromatic and organic infusion teas are available. If you visit Cafe Antonia, expect the very best and be prepared to revel in surroundings and food fit for any queen.
Visit Cafe Antonia at Le Bristol Paris. Tea time is daily from 3-6pm. The Le Bristol high tea set includes a glass of champagne for €80 per person or €120 for two. For reservations, email cafeantonia. lebristolparis@oetkercollection.com.
Each pastry has a half-dozen textures, four toppings and three visible colours in every bite