WINE ME DINE ME
Calderazzo On 31 serves southern Italian fare.
THE SETTING
Sukhumvit 31 is a long soi and we often tend to forget the little cut off street leading to Soi 23. Calderazzo On 31 is on this forgotten street. Having recently moved from Langsuan to 31, Calderazzo is Italian with a difference. It has a rather bistro-like feel to it, with plenty of tables for private or romantic dinners. There is also a patio for those who enjoy the occasional breeze Mother Nature allows Bangkok.
A table at the entrance displays the produce that chef Marco Calderazzo uses in his authentic southern Italian cooking, always fresh and flown in from France or Italy, depending on what’s in season. The Thai produce is from an organic farm in Khao Yai. Fresh artichokes and zucchini flowers were already singing out to me as soon as I walked in!
Chef Marco’s father Antonio aka “Papa Tony”, however, is the “man of the house”. He is lively, flirtatious and equipped with a great sense of humour… like most Italian men. You are home the moment you exchange a few words with him.
THE MENU
Spoiler alert: If you are looking for run-ofthe-mill Italian, stop reading now. If you are looking for traditional southern Italian fare like
CALDERAZZO ON 31 ITALIAN RESTAURANT
253/2 Sukhumvit 31
Open 11.30am-11.30pm
Call 02-258-3828
Visit facebook.com/CalderazzoOn31
Marco a mare (B360) or Fish bone triple boiled scent of sea soup with wild fish, prawns, prawns morsels and risoni, then read on.
If artichokes are your thing, like they are mine, then you are going to be in heaven. Calderazzo On 31 has an entire section of the menu dedicated to them, and with prices that aren’t going to make you wanna rob a bank. The sautéed artichoke hearts, parsley white wine (B290) was an excellent start.
Next came the Amalfi Coast delight of Positano Mare e Monti, Delicate fragrant zucchini flowers stuffed with Scamorza and anchovy (B420). The batter was super crispy and light, giving my palate the full taste of the zucchini flower and the cheese. Even though I am not a fan of anchovies, somehow I did not mind them in this dish. Fun fact: Zucchini flowers that are served with the stem, like they are in Calderazzo On 31, are female. This way you get not only the blossoms, but also a bit of the zucchini, itself. Yum!
It would be sacrilege to go to an Italian restaurant and not order the pasta, especially if it is hand-made. Calderazzo On 31’s signature pasta dish is the Orecchiette Salsiccia e Finocchio (B380), hand-rolled orecchiette mixed with spiced Italian pork sausage, fennel and seasonal greens. The pasta, deliciously tossed in olive oil, was cooked al dente and was a good accompaniment to the thin handcut sausage.
Of course, Calderazzo On 31 serves pizza, but I skipped the carbs and headed straight to my other favourite — octopus. Polpo Mediterraneo (B790) is sliced octopus, imported from France, briskly simmered in a tomatoes, chilli, capers sauce served with kalamata olives, roasted polenta and sautéed baby spinach. On the first bite, the octopus did taste a bit too fishy. However, subsequent bites were fine and I enjoyed each tender morsel with the divine tomato sauce.
To finish a good meal, try the Sicilian favourite Cannoli di Zia Tettella (B220), little pastry shells filled with sweetened ricotta cheese and topped with crispy candied fruits. I am not a candied fruit person, so did not care much for them, but the ricotta, which Sicily is known for, was creamy deliciousness. If I had to pick a favourite Italian dessert, it would probably be the tiramisu. Calderazzo On 31’s Tiramisu zia Tettella (B220), with mascarpone, coffee and liqueur infused savoiardi was a bit disappointing. It lacked the intense espresso flavour that I like so much.
INSIDER’S TIP
Papa Tony is a bit of an expert in wine pairing, so if you spot the friendly “Calderazzo World” brand ambassador around, ask him for suggestions. He will not disappoint. Most of the wines are sourced from small vineyards in southern Italy. A closer look at the menu will show you a colour chart for signature dishes, vegetarian, vegans, meat and fish.
VALUE AND VERDICT
“We want quality on the plate and we try to keep the food affordable. We use top quality produce, down to the olive oil. We don’t settle for second best,” says chef Marco Calderazzo, and this ideal is easily visible throughout the menu. Even the bread is made in-house. The menu is just the right amount of goodness, which helps the kitchen do a good job on quality control. Calderazzo On 31 is solid southern Italian cooking at wallet-friendly prices.