The asparagus whisperer
Sylvain Erhardt planted his first seed in 2009 and harvested his first crop in April 2010 in Sénas, France. Popularly known as the “king of asparagus”, Asperges de Roques Hautes supplies some of the world’s best chefs with the spring’s most coveted vegetable.
The favourite asparagiculteur of chefs, Erhardt’s produce is so sought after that the “pope of vegetables” chef Alain Passard of three Michelin-starred L’Arpege prepared a 12-course dinner surrounding his green tips.
Erhardt was recently brought to Bangkok by Avril Foods to showcase the end of the season’s crop. “I chose to grow asparagus because it is a luxury vegetable and a seasonal one. It’s a vegetable you wait for and you’re expecting it all winter. [Asparagus grows between March and May]. It’s a vegetable I like to eat, though I like small peas, too.”
Asperges de Roques Hautes cultivates only two types of asparagus on 12 hectares — Grolim, Erhardt’s personal favourite, which is grown under an unheated shelter, and Thelim, which grows in open fields.
“When not growing asparagus, we spend the rest of the year preparing the soil for growing, cultivating and harvesting asparagus,” Erhardt said. “It’s always about asparagus. A lot of the nine months, when asparagus is not growing, is spent removing the weeds from the soil — it is all done by hand. There are no chemicals involved and it takes a lot of time. We also have to monitor the irrigation and the weather conditions closely to make sure it is suitable for the plant.
“We have three people helping with the harvest, three helping with the selecting and sorting, I oversee all production and my wife looks after the administration. After harvest season is over, it is just me and my wife.”
Why no white asparagus? “My soil has a lot of limestone, which improves the flavour of the vegetable. However, white asparagus needs sand and my land doesn’t have enough of it.” And what is the best way to cook green asparagus, according to the grandmaster? “In a pan with a lid on. Blanching them takes away most of the flavour, so never do that.”
The event also showcased olive oils by Xavier Alazard, producer of Le Carre des Huile, and a few dishes using both products by chef Chandler Schultz from Le Cochon Blanc at Issaya Cooking Studio, Central Embassy.