CYCLE THE SAMURAI WAY
ONE BRAVE TRAVELLER CHOSE PEDAL POWER OVER JAPAN’S HIGH-SPEED TRAINS
One of the best things about travelling in Japan is the fast and convenient Shinkansen. The bullet trains can whisk you from Tokyo to Kyoto in as little as two hours and 20 minutes. Or you could, like 34-year old Gabriel Camelin, a video and photography lecturer at Silpakorn University, do the same trip on your bicycle. The route through the mountains is 570km and can be done, if you’re as brave and fit as Gabriel, in just seven days.
We asked him to share his preparation, route, worries and tips.
Where did the idea for the trip first come from?
I went to Japan two years ago and while I was sitting in the Shinkansen from Kyoto to Tokyo, passing through the rice fields and all those rivers and canals, I was wondering what it would be like to live in the countryside. The idea of a cycling trip came to me this year after a couple of friends did their first long bike tour. Cycling from Tokyo to Kyoto became an obsession.
How did you research the trip?
There’s a lot of information on the internet, as cycling from Tokyo to Kyoto is pretty popular, but it’s mostly about the Tokaido road, which follows the coast. I was more interested in reaching Kyoto through the mountains via the Koshu Kaido and Nakasendo roads. It was a challenge because I found no information in English about this. One very useful group on Facebook was Bicycle Touring, Hiking and Friends in Japan, which gave me the best information about everything from what bag you should buy for your bicycle to what bears you could meet on the road.
How long did it take to plan the trip?
I did most of the planning at the last minute. I was hesitating a lot about bringing my own bike, renting one or buying one over there. I chose the first option. I flew with Nok Scoot and paid for 20kg of checked-in luggage, and there was no extra charge for the bike. I used a professional bicycle bag, which was pretty heavy to carry around, and not really convenient if you have to walk a long distance.
Did you need to physically prepare?
I’m not a very athletic person, but I cycle to work every day. I think it’s a good idea to prepare yourself a bit, especially to shave off a few kilos before going. What I was not prepared for is doing a lot of uphill cycling.
I was dreading it, as I had no experience, but I survived in the end. You just need to take your time, drop down a gear and keep on spinning.
What was the route and how did you decide on it?
I wanted to see Mount Fuji before going on the main road. It added a few kilometres to the trip but it was a form of pilgrimage for me, as my girlfriend’s remains are there. Then the idea was to go through the mountains along the Koshu Kaido route, then the Nakasendo route. Those two routes both date from the Edo period. I tried to avoid using the main roads as much as I could, so I used the GPS mapping application Komoot. It really simplified my planning.
How far did you plan to travel each day? Was it a strict timetable?
I actually did most of the planning when I was in Tokyo. I calculated the elevation, the distance and also landmarks I would want to see each day. The distances varied — the first day I did 110km, the fourth day 60km. On average I was doing around 80 to 90km a day.
One of the mistakes I made was thinking that Japan in summer is like France. I thought the Sun would set at 10pm. Like Thailand, at 6.30pm it’s quite dark and the Sun rises at 4.30 in the morning! I should have started each day at 6.30am, but I was leaving around 10 or 11am, after a bit of sightseeing. I always finished my ride in the dark.
How did you find accommodation along the way?
I used Booking.com in the beginning, but I was never completely sure where I would be in the next three days, so I usually booked my accommodation two days in advance. It became a ritual to arrive in one place, then immediately research the next place. Some days, I decided to spend a bit more money and stay in ryokans [a type of traditional Japanese inn] with onsens.
What problems did you encounter?
I got a few punctures, usually in the middle of nowhere while going uphill. The weather was not very pleasant and it rained from time to time but I still consider myself lucky. I had some issues with my mapping app when it made me go uphill on roads that are not fit for cycling. Bear marks on the trees sometimes gave me the creeps, but luckily I didn’t meet any bears.
What were the highlights?
I saw Mount Fuji on my first day. It’s a very impressive sight when you pass by the rice fields and you suddenly see its familiar shape. Passing through small old wooden villages on the Nakasendo road and following the Kiso River was also thrilling. Closer to Nagoya I spent the night in Magome. It’s a famous spot for hiking and perhaps the most beautiful village I saw on my trip. I also really enjoyed Inuyama, a town on the Kiso River with a beautiful castle and really nice main street.
One of the mistakes I made was thinking that Japan in summer is like France. I always finished my ride in the dark