EDIBLE GOLD
Bharat Shah is the most underrated Indian chef in Bangkok. There I’ve said it. And, I don’t say this likely.
I am not a stranger to Punjab Grill’s executive chef’s tasting menus and have eaten every one since he took the helm in 2015. However, his new menu is his best, yet.
Starting off the six-course tasting menu is an-all India favourite: Phal aur bhalla papadi chaat. India loves a good chaat and this one is a modern twist with a spicy kick. Seasonal fresh fruit (dragonfruit, watermelon and muskmelon) diced and tossed in chaat masala and chutney are topped with a lentil “dumpling” soaked in ginger and chilli flavoured buttermilk and served with sweet yoghurt mousse. This comes with a carom-scented flour crisp, which in Hindi is a “muttri”, a teatime snack in most north Indian households. Salivating yet?
It is not an exaggeration when I say this is a progressive menu, because as the meal continues it keeps getting better. My favourites are the second and third courses.
Kekda teen tarike se, which translates as “crab in three ways”, is the Indian version of the crab cake. Using fresh local crab meat, the cakes are coated with sago pearls and served with a crab chutney and a grilled spicy crab claw. The claw is marinated for a day in lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf and galangal, which may not be a very Indian marinade but is definitely very chef Bhat.
For vegetarians, the second course is an Aloo cranberry tikki. Spiced potato cakes are filled with cranberry and served with a white pea mash.
The third course is l amb spare ribs poached slowly in milk and lamb stock, scented with fennel and star anise. The poached ribs are then roasted in a charcoal tandoor with chef Bhat’s signature (and secret) spice rub. I was a tad surprised when the dish reached the table — the ribs are served with a wedge of roasted spicy Phuket pineapple, which are regarded as an auspicious fruit in Thailand. Though the ribs are lip-smackingly spicy, when paired with the juicy pineapple the spice quotient is reduced and leaves you with a wonderful warm feeling. If you don’t gnaw on the bones, I would be disappointed.
I grew up in India and chef Bhat’s palate cleanser took me back to my childhood days when “golas” or ice lollies were all the rage.
And because India has a long-standing love affair with everything gold, the main course of 24 carat murgh makhani comes with 24-carat gold leaf on it. Baby chicken breast is marinated for 24 hours in fenugreek leaves, yoghurt and yellow chilli powder. It is served atop an aubergine and courgette (eggplant and zucchini) timbale. To make the sauce, the chef distils tomato and mixes the clear water with cream. This is served with a sundried tomato naan, and it is the best naan I have eaten, so far!
If chicken ain’t your thing, swap for the 24 carat paneer makhani. Fear not, chef Bhat promises the same amount of gold on the vegetarian dish, too!
Dessert is in chef Bhat’s signature style and is a flamboyant heady mix of Indian and Western sweet treats. Because of the nature of this dish, I shall refrain from saying more. Go, see and try for yourself!