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WEATHERING THE STORM

Damaged Caribbean resorts make a comeback for high season

- Story by ELAINE GLUSAC / NYT

When hurricanes Irma and Maria hit in back-to-back succession last year, they had a profound impact on high-season traffic in a handful of the hardest-hit Caribbean islands, including Puerto Rico, the Virgin Islands and St Maarten/ St Martin. Tourist arrivals dropped 8.7% across the Caribbean from January until April of this year compared to the same period in 2017, according to the Caribbean Tourism Organizati­on.

Now the organisati­on is predicting a 4.3% increase in tourism to the region in 2019 as the affected islands recover.

Shuttered resorts on the most damaged islands are working diligently to reopen in time for winter. Here’s a look at those resorts, island by island.

ANGUILLA

Zemi Beach House and the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Anguilla have already reopened on Anguilla. Joining them this month, the remodelled CuisinArt Golf Resort & Spa features new channellin­g interiors in blue and white across 91 rooms and seven villas (rooms from US$550 — or 18,000 baht — a night).

The resort’s hydroponic farm is growing a greater variety of ingredient­s for its five restaurant­s, including the new, small-platefocus­ed KazBar, as well as the botanical scrubs in its 16-treatment-room spa. An 18-hole golf course has renovated bunkers and new golf carts.

In December, the former luxury resort Cap Juluca will reopen as Belmond Cap Juluca. The whitewashe­d, Greek-inspired hideaway on Maundays Bay will have a new infinity pool, beach bar, landscapin­g and 10 additional rooms for a total of 108, each with a balcony or terrace and direct access to the beach (from $725). After sunrise yoga, guests can have breakfast at tables placed in shallow water, go kitesurfin­g or visit the oceanfront spa with its own swimming pool.

Expect Malliouhan­a, Auberge Resorts Collection to reopen next month with 46 restored rooms, an expanded pool area and, in early 2019, a new beachfront bar, an additional villa, suites and an expanded spa with six treatment rooms (from $795).

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

Like their US counterpar­ts, the British Virgin Islands were struck by both hurricanes. The government has been promoting charter sailboats and yachts — roughly 3,000 berths are available throughout the 80 islands and cays of the country — as a way to visit by sea.

On Tortola, the popular Sugar Mill resort, set on a former sugar plantation, was extensivel­y damaged. It reopens this month with 24 refurbishe­d rooms and two restaurant­s, including its fine-dining restaurant set inside a 400-year-old former sugar-boiling house (rooms from $295).

Partly reopened in spring, Scrub Island Resort, Spa & Marina, which solely occupies 93-hectare Scrub Island, expects to have all 52 guest rooms and suites reopened by the end of December (rooms from $359). The spa added a beachfront treatment cabana.

On Virgin Gorda, Oil Nut Bay reopened last December and by the end of this year plans to open four new one-bedroom villas, a watersport­s centre offering guided snorkellin­g trips and sailing lessons, a two-treatment-room spa and a new marina village with a restaurant and shops (rooms from $550).

DOMINICA

Among the handful of renewed hotels on Dominica, the secluded Secret Bay is reopening this month with six restored villas, each with a plunge pool (from $705). The property’s first restaurant, Zing Zing, will also open along with a newly built yoga pavilion.

On the island’s east coast, Citrus Creek Plantation is expected to resume operations in early 2019 with nine restored cottages on 8 hectares (from $115). Crops were replanted in the resort garden that grows much of the produce served at the riverside restaurant.

In the capital, Roseau, the Fort Young Hotel currently has open more than half its 72 rooms as well as a new poolside bar, with plans to complete its renovation in February (from $209).

PUERTO RICO

Puerto Rico is anticipati­ng a tourism boost as some of its top hotels reopen, including

Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve last month and St Regis Bahia Beach Resort in December. Over 11,000 hotel rooms are currently available and tourism officials expect room inventory to reach 15,000, or pre-Maria levels, by mid-2019.

Among island classics, the El San Juan Hotel on Isla Verde Beach is expected to fully reopen in December. In early 2019, the 1949-vintage Caribe Hilton will be back with 652 remodelled rooms, new tennis courts, restaurant­s and bars.

Airbnb reported 7,700 active home listings in Puerto Rico in September 2017. That figure shrank 11% after Hurricane Maria, but has rebounded to more than 8,300 listings today. The company also introduced its Puerto Rico version of Experience­s, guided activities led by locals, in May. It now offers 80 of these tours, including a walking tour of old San Juan with an architect and paddleboar­ding lessons in a lagoon (each $25).

ST BARTS

Several high-profile resorts on St Barts are now open, including Hotel Le Toiny, which added eight new villas, for a total of 22 accommodat­ions, and a beachfront pool (from €585, or 22,000 baht). Hotel Christophe­r is also back (from €450), with two of its three restaurant­s rebuilt, its pool modernised and a fitness room added to its spa.

Le Barthélemy Hotel & Spa has 48 restored beachfront suites, new thermal spa features, including hot and cold plunges, a steam room and sauna, a beach grill and rooftop bar with a DJ or live music on the weekends (from $829).

Le Sereno St Barth will go to 39 rooms from 36, including a new family suite (from €750), when it reopens next month.

ST MAARTEN/ST MARTIN

Tourism grew 9.8% between the first and second quarters of 2018 on St. Maarten. As of September, more than 74,000 travellers had visited the island, a figure dwarfed by cruise-ship arrivals of over 944,000, which reflects a 1.67% increase compared with the same period a year ago.

A clutch of high-profile resorts should increase overnight figures.

The all-inclusive, adults-only Sonesta Ocean Point Resort will reopen on Dec 15 (from $229 a person) and its sibling, familyfrie­ndly Sonesta Maho Beach Resort Casino & Spa, is coming in February (from $135 a person).

On the French side of the dual-nation island, Belmond La Samanna plans to resume operations next month on its milelong private beach with 83 rebuilt rooms, swings in the remodelled beach bar and beachfront spa cabanas (from $421).

This month the Grand Case Beach Hotel Club is back with apartment-style accommodat­ions, access to two private beaches and a swimming pool overlookin­g Grand Case Bay (from $295).

US VIRGIN ISLANDS

Cruise-ship arrivals are back to pre-hurricane levels, all beaches are open and nearly all restaurant­s are back in business, but only about half the lodgings are back. Many of these are smaller hotels, inns and villas; the tourism office maintains a list of property updates online. There are also about 830 Airbnb listings available across the three main islands.

This summer, the tourism department launched Purpose in Paradise, a program that links visitors to volunteer opportunit­ies such as coral restoratio­n, vegetable gardening and student literacy.

 ??  ?? Secret Bay, a resort on Dominica in the Caribbean.
Secret Bay, a resort on Dominica in the Caribbean.
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 ??  ?? LEFT The Belmond Cap Juluca, a resort on Anguilla in the Caribbean.
LEFT The Belmond Cap Juluca, a resort on Anguilla in the Caribbean.
 ??  ?? Oil Nut Bay, a resort on Virgin Gorda in the Caribbean.
Oil Nut Bay, a resort on Virgin Gorda in the Caribbean.

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