Maritime time
Breguet’s Marine collection commemorates over 200 years of naval watchmaking
On Oct 27, 1815, King Louis XVIII of France appointed Abraham-Louis Breguet “Horloger de la Marine Royale”, supplying the French Royal Navy with marine chronometers that were essential in calculating longitude at sea among other functions.
Over two centuries later, this prestigious title is commemorated as an engraving on caseback of Breguet’s Marine timepieces.
The new collection includes women’s models, aesthetically enhanced with ocean-inspired motifs and details, while showcasing the delicate art of “guillochage” or engine-turning that the legendary horologist introduced to watchmaking in 1786.
His eponymous brand is a specialist in mechanical craftsmanship, which involves precision-engraving of materials in grids of straight, curved or broken lines. These exquisite circular shapes and linear patterns are rendered by engine-turning lathes.
Similar in appearance to conventional machines, the engine-turning lathes have been updated in terms of ergonomics, lighting, optics and precision at dedicated guillochage ateliers at Manufacture Breguet in Vallée de Joux, Switzerland’s hub for mechanical horology.
A research and creation unit was even set up specifically to develop shapes and patterns as novel decorative elements.
Its artisans incorporate curves to capture the natural movement of water for its marea motif which reflects tidal patterns, evoking the sea as it laps the shore.
The engine-turning lathes have to be equipped with special cams to achieve this original pattern, which adorns the fragile mother-of-pearl dial and rotor of the new Marine Dame, powered by mechanical self-winding Calibre 591 A.
The movement’s bars are decorated with double engine-turned côtes de Genève, recalling a ship’s deck.
Other sea-related elements include the second hand with a maritime flag representing Breguet’s initials, Roman numerals resembling nautical pennants and crown protection appearing like a wave.
Screws in the shape of navigational markers provide a flexible hold for strap fasteners, while a white rubber strap boasts a seagrass arabesque motif, inspired by a plant found on the bottom of the Mediterranean Sea.
Presented in steel as well as rose or white gold cases with a fluted caseband, the Marine Dame collection comprises variations with diamonds, and the dial in polished or engine-tuned mother-of-pearl or an ocean-blue lacquer with light reflections.
The marbled motif is animated by clearer volutes reminiscent of white horses of the sea or a starlit night sky, used for navigation in former times.
According to his own account, Abraham-Louis Breguet started to work on chronometers early in his career and was keen on improving their performance for maritime navigation.
The native of Neuchâtel established a watchmaking business in Paris in 1775, and became famous for inventions such as the Breguet balance-spring, gongspring and tourbillon.
His marine chronometers became recognised for their exceptional quality, eventually earning him the title of “Horloger de la Marine Royale” (Watchmaker to the Royal Navy) at the age of 68.
In addition to military seafaring and trade, Breguet’s marine timepieces accompanied explorers such as Louis de Freycinet and Hyacinthe de Bougainville on round-the-world voyages in the early 19th century.
Likewise, a Breguet regulator became the first time measurement instrument to reach Antarctica, when Jules Dumont d’Urville accomplished his last expedition in January 1840.
In the 20th century, the company continued to supply the French navy with precision instruments such as torpedo-boat clocks and siderometers into the 1960s.
Breguet celebrated its heritage in maritime horology through sports watches introduced in 1990, followed by a new generation of Marine watches in 2005 and a redesign in 2017.
The men’s Marine watches have been reinterpreted with a sunburst slategrey dial in gold, and with both the bracelet and case in titanium — a light and robust material that also provides resistance to salty air and corrosion in a sea environment.
The trio of titanium timepieces include Marine 5517 with a date display, Marine Chronographe 5527 and Marine Alarme Musicale 5547.
The time and alarm functions of Marine Alarme Musicale, driven by self-winding Calibre 519F/1, can be set without either interfering with the other.
A push-button at 8 o’clock activates or deactivates the alarm, indicated in a sub dial at 3 o’clock and with a ship’s bell appearing through an aperture at 12 o’clock when triggering the striking mechanism.
The second time zone is displayed at 9 o’clock, while the striking mechanism power reserve is discreetly visible between 9 and 12 o’clock.
Like in the women’s watches, the rim of the caseback bears the Horloger de la Marine engraving. The design of the gold rotor recalls a rudder, to further reflect Breguet’s rich maritime heritage.