PSYCHEDELIC BELLES
LOUIS VUITTON SPLICES THE BEST OF THE 1870s WITH THE 1970s FOR ITS SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION
Transposing Art Nouveau onto ready-to-wear, Nicolas Ghesquière recalls the Belle Époque, when Paris flourished as a centre of cultural and intellectual development.
The Art Nouveau aesthetics merge with 1970s silhouette in key pieces from Louis Vuitton’s spring/ summer 2020 collection, launched recently in Thailand at Iconsiam.
Artistic director of the women’s collection since 2013, Ghesquière has revisited the classic A-line silhouette for skirts, dresses and coats that boast eye-catching prints, such as psychedelic swirls of paisley and abstract landscapes.
An iris landscape with glossy petals, rendered by a slim gel technique, appears on a plastron of belted dresses with a Peter Pan collar and voluminous bell-shaped sleeves. The plastron along with a graphic interpretation of the iconic Monogram makes for bold prints on a standout wool and mohair belted dress.
A mix of floral and Art Nouveau motifs is emblazoned on a statement leather jacket with gathered sleeves. The 1970s silhouette is pronounced in single- and double-breasted jackets with a nipped waist, gathered shoulders and wide lapels, one of which is adorned with a cattleya orchid brooch.
With detailing of classic tailoring, a zigzag herringbone wool knit jacket is layered over a vest with a chain adorning piped pockets, and a sleeveless check shirt with collat ties. The ensemble recalls the decade’s three-piece suiting and sophisticated dandy style.
The layering theme also applies to other pieces, to strut the season’s retro looks.