Ayutthaya’s Sena district is blessed with legends and rural charms
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STORY AND PHOTOS: PONGPET MEKLOY
Arefreshing breeze blew from the other side of the river, greeted by cheerfully rustling leaves of land and aquatic plants along its expansive path. Different kinds of egrets, thanks to their sizes and bright white plumage, could easily be spotted foraging near the waterside, but faint chirps in the air also revealed the presence of numerous other birds hiding among the foliage. In the river, a monitor lizard emerged from the dense floating patches of water hyacinth and swam leisurely in the open to the far bank. Meanwhile, along the lively yet tranquil waterway line traditional-style wooden houses built on tall stilts, some with boats moored at the water’s edge.
To a lot of people, the sight I was enjoying may seem like a scene from the past, however, this area’s good old days weren’t like this. Until four decades ago, this part of Noi River in Sena, 20km west of downtown Ayutthaya, was a bustling centre of water transport and a trading hub.
Each day, the river and the connecting Chao Chet canal saw numerous vessels of all sizes, from paddle boats to double-deckers loaded with both goods and passengers from Tha Tian pier near the Grand Palace in Bangkok to Suphan Buri further west and to Sankhaburi in Chai Nat further north.
Sena district, whose downtown area i also known as Ban Phaen, is home to several waterside temples. Among the most wellknown are Wat Bang Nom Kho, Wat Sam Ko, Wat Chao Chet Nai, Wat Ban Phaen and Wat Phra Khao. Each of these temples was home to late abbots who are still widely respected.
For example, Luang Pho Pan of Wat Bang Nom Kho (in the monkhood for 43 years since 1896), is one of Ayutthaya’s most revered monks. During his time, roads were not avail able in these parts and Wat Bang Nom Kho was always crowded by people from far and wide who cameby boat to seek his help for their illnesses. Due to the long travel time, a lot of those who came from other provinces had to stay overnight at the temple. To make sure none of the visitors would ever go hungry, three almshouses were setup in the temple, which was open round the clock.
Apart from his kindness and knowledge on both dhamma and traditional medicine, Luang Pho Pan, like other legendary monks in those days, was also known for supernatural powers.He had correctly predicted the date of his death three years in advance. When the day finally arrived, July 26, 1938, the venerable monk passed away peacefully while listening to the prayer by over 200 monks who had gathered to send himoff. Many of them were his students, including the late Luang Pho Rusi Lingdam, the highly revered former abbot of Wat Tha Sung in Uthai Thani. Even now, every July, Wat Bang Nom Kho marks Luang Pho Pan’s death his year, religious ceremonies will be performed from July 18-19. As usual, therewill also be almshouse to bring back the old atmosphere. However, due to the coronavirus pandemic, this time it may not be as grand.
The undying respect people have for Luang PhoPan and other legendary monks of Sena reflects the strong bond between rural folks and religion back in the day. However, there is alot more you can learn by visiting the district’s temples and surrounding neighbourhoods, including local history and way of life.
Although these days it may not be convenient to reside overnight at a temple unlike during Luang PhoPan’s time you can stay in the homes of local families instead. Homestay services allow you to soak in the area’s rural charms which are still intact thanks to th demise of water transport caused by the advent of roadways Things have changed over time. In the case of Sena’s water side communities, maybe it’ not all for the worse.
● For many towns and villages across the country, avisit by the belovedKing Bhumibol Adulyadej was an important part of local history. At Wat Sam Ko and Wat Bang Nom Kho, decades-old photographs of the King’s visits to Sena district are proudly displayed at many spots. The latter also has images of the visit of the royal family on Dec 7, 1974, depicted as part of mural paintings on its prayer hall.