BREAK FREE IN THE CITY
Escape offers a seriously cool beach vibe in the concrete jungle
If I, on spur of moment, had popped up at Escape, this week’s subject of review, I would never think I was in Bangkok. The sight, sound and smell were very much like those of an al fresco beach bar somewhere in the Caribbean, or Bali, or Ibiza, or even Koh Samui. Such a vibe was not at all what I would expect in the middle of Sukhumvit let alone on the 5th floor of EmQuartier shopping centre.
It was an early Thursday evening when our party of five arrived at the 1,500m² restaurant.
Downtempo electronic music was keeping the crowd — a mix of young office workers and Western expats — in a chilled-out club mood. Rows of thatched-roof cabañas, canvas beach canopies and woven wicker furniture provided to the scene a coastal holiday sensation amid a bird’s-eye panorama of the commercial district.
Get a table at the outdoor deck should you wish to enjoy a picnic-style feast, utmost nonchalant gathering or up-close bar buzz.
The large open space, which can comfortably accommodate 250 guests, also boasts a stylish bar and a dynamic DJ booth. Rumour has it that the mixologists and DJ here were chosen primarily for their looks and personalities. They were good-looking people, alright. But a lot more enticing to me were their excellent concoctions of beverages and playlists.
For more proper dining, step inside the air-con room. The room, which seats up to 100 diners, is bedecked with floral-print upholstery, flowing drapes, lounging sofas, vintage chandeliers, potted plants and a Mediterranean tile floor, which combine a seaside home intimacy with rustic Bohemian flair.
Escape’s culinary direction is crafted by general manager Sean Venter, a veteran chef with more than two decades of experience working at five-star hotels and restaurants all over the world. South African native Venter defines the restaurant’s cuisine as modern comfort food.
The 100-item menu, which comes in print and also in a PDF file version, which can be read from your smartphone, features Western and Asian favourites, presented in the styles of pub bite, barbecue and gourmet a la carte.
The snack section lists the likes of deepfried spring rolls, burrata-Parma ham salad, seared scallops, Mediterranean mussel pot and freshly shucked Fine de Claire oysters.
An appetiser board (890 baht) allows you to enjoy four best-selling finger food choices at one go. On the long wooden platter exhibited two peri-peri style grilled prawns on a bed of sweet mango salsa; four pieces of slow-cooked baby back ribs with chipotle BBQ sauce; two tamarind glazed deep-fried chicken wings with golden shallots; and salt & pepper crispy calamari. All were delicious.
Although not a full-blooded Mexican eatery, Escape served admirably good tacos that were second to none. Highly recommended are wagyu beef cheek taco (420 baht) and pulled pork taco (350 baht), both came on soft flour tortilla and were truly addictive.
From a selection of salad, we went for the Lobster & Citrus (450 baht), a lovely mix of baby frisée, fresh orange pulp, slices of avocado and sweet mango with Boston lobster claws and honey lemon vinaigrette.
Soft shell crab sliders (490 baht), offered in three pieces, presented deep-fried battered softshell crab with avocado and Asian coleslaw on housemade squid-ink bun accompanied by super tasty smoked chipotle mayo.
Steak and grills are also a no-nonsense business here. They are cooked with kamado charcoal and offered in a large-sharing portion.
Our order of kurobuta pork tomahawk (650 baht) proved tender and juicy and went well with a duo of red wine reduction and spicy jaew sauce on the side.
The real star of the evening, to our pleasing surprise, was slow-cooked beef cheek
massaman served with roti bread (690 baht). The look was no different from a typical
massaman dish, with hefty cubes of beef cheeks, potatoes and pumpkin bathed in the cinnamon-spiced brown curry.
But the mouthfeel, oh my the mouthfeel, was amazingly light and unique.
You can say the consistency of the curry was watery, almost bisque-like, compared to a traditional rendition. But it’s deliciously packed with a depth of authentic flavours and fragrances. Complementing the massaman was Escape’s distinctive take on roti. It’s part Indian roti, part Chinese scallion pancake and part Western pastry thanks to a slight buttery touch.
Dessert options include molten chocolate cake, tiramisu, apple crumble and crème brûlée.
Try white chocolate panna cotta with passion fruit and berries (240 baht) and Thai tea cream brûlée (180 baht) and you’ll be delighted.
Food came out quickly and in generous portions. Service blended cordiality with professional promptness. Music got more upbeat as the night went on, and was always right for the hour and the crowd.
The restaurant is directly accessible via an elevator in the Glass Quartier building or more adventurously via an open-air glass bridge from the 5th floor of the Waterfall Quartier. Reservations are recommended.