COMPLEX BEAUTY
PATEK PHILIPPE’S LATEST GRAND COMPLICATIONS ARE A RESULT OF MORE THAN 180 YEARS OF HOROLOGICAL GENIUS
Grand complications have always been Patek Philippe’s passion, from the very beginning with its quarter repeater pocket watch created in 1839. A pocket watch with a minute repeater, which followed in 1845, allowed the Swiss brand to establish itself as one of the greatest interpreters of the music of time.
Taking striking mechanisms to the next level, Patek Philippe crafted the Ref 5303 with a dial-less architecture that exposes the minute repeater for an impressive view of the hammers and gongs in action.
Its prowess in grand complications further shows in reinterpretations of the Ref 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and Ref 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph, that were launched this year.
As a limited edition of 12 pieces, the Ref 5303R010 made its world debut at the “Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019”, held at Sands Theatre, Marina Bay Sands.
Patek Philippe recently introduced a new variation, Ref 5303R-001 Minute Repeater Tourbillon, housed in a 42mm rose gold case with a wide, cambered and polished bezel as well as white gold inlays.
The case band and strap lugs are adorned with foliage engravings that also appear on the white gold slide on the left-hand case flank, used to activate the minute repeater.
The unconventional dial also reveals the tourbillon, of which the rear side of the cage can be seen beneath the seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock.
A white-printed minute scale and powdered rose gold markers contrast against the hour circle in black lacquered sapphire crystal.
Framed by a white gold rim with an open worked decoration, the manually wound mechanical movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back.
The Ref 5303 is Patek Philippe’s first minute repeater featuring a striking mechanism on the dial side.
The expertise in this type of mechanism was previously applied to the Sky Moon Tourbillon wristwatch with a minute repeater featuring cathedral gongs, as one of the timepiece’s 12 complications.
Currently, Patek Philippe’s most sophisticated wristwatch with 20 complications, the double-faced reversible Grandmaster Chime boasts five chiming functions, two of which are patented acoustic firsts.
Accommodating a maximum of technical complexity in a minimal volume was also achieved in the supercomplicated Calibre 89 with 33 complications, and the Star Caliber 2000 with 21 complications.
Patek Philippe began miniaturising grand complications, such as a perpetual calendar, on a wristwatch in the 1920s.
Today, the brand has one of the most comprehensive collections of regularly-produced grand complications, including minute repeaters with perpetual calendars, as well as other combinations.
No matter how complicated, its watches are still user friendly while offering functional integrity and legibility.
A perpetual calendar and a chronograph meet in Ref 5270, previously presented in a 41mm platinum or a rose gold case.
The new yellow gold Ref 5270J-001 features a silvery opalescent dial, whose perpetual calendar indicators are tastefully balanced.
A double window for the day and month is located at 12 o’clock, while the analogue date at 6 o’clock with a moon phase display is flanked by two small round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle.
A 30-minute counter and subsidiary seconds dial are positioned respectively between 3 and 4, and 8 and 9 o’clock.
Revealed by the sapphire crystal case back, the movement combines traditional architecture with six patented innovations for the chronograph functions and stands out with its extremely thin calendar mechanism.
Patek Philippe has also mastered split-seconds chronograph, of which its first movement dates back to 1923.
Launched in 2015, the Ref 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph is powered by a two-phase chronograph movement with two pushers and a rattrapante pusher integrated in the crown, as an impressive example of how tradition meets innovation in its haute horlogerie.
The movement actually features six patented chronograph innovations plus one for the rattrapante mechanism.
The technical mastery is complemented by meticulous craftsmanship in the new 41mm platinum Ref 5370P-011 with a glossy blue Grand Feu enamel dial.
NO MATTER HOW COMPLICATED, ITS WATCHES ARE STILL USER FRIENDLY WHILE OFFERING FUNCTIONAL INTEGRITY AND LEGIBILITY
The sweep chronograph and rattrapante hands as well as the instantaneous 30-minute counter hand contrast clearly against the blue dial as do the white-printed scales.
The last independent, family-owned Genevan manufacture develops and produces its movements and timepieces with its own resources at its facilities in Plan-les-Ouates. The three new models further enrich the already extensive line-up of grand complications.