Bangkok Post

Options abound for pilgrims

Life compiles a list of historical temples where you can make merit and start the new year with good deeds

- STORY AND PHOTOS: PATTARAWAD­EE SAENGMANEE

It’s time to say goodbye to 2022, and doing good deeds to bring in the New Year seems to be the norm. Those who are staying in Bangkok can benefit from this rare opportunit­y to have a peaceful vacation while most leave the capital.

The expansion of the rapid transit system and boat passenger service has made it easier for Buddhist pilgrims to arrange a seamless day excursion to a holy site and make wishes for success, good health, fortune and prosperity in the upcoming year.

Life compiles a list of several historical temples along the Chao Phraya River, on Rattanakos­in, and on the Thon Buri side to provide inspiratio­n for those still in the capital.

WAT YANNAWA

With a life-size replica of a white royal Chinese junk built during the reign of King Rama III, Wat Yannawa brings visitors back to the heyday of Siam’s bustling nautical trade. A pair of white chedis were crafted to replace mainmasts and a captain’s cabin on a deck houses an archaic Lanna-style Buddha statue in the posture of subdued mara, which is believed to have been brought from Laos.

Once known as Wat Khok Khwai, this temple was constructe­d during the Ayutthaya era and declared a royal temple during the Thon Buri era. Located only 200m from the Taksin BTS station, visitors can worship a holy Buddha statue in the Ayutthaya style and a Deva figure adorned with Himmapan animal-inspired motifs in the historical ubosot.

Its base was formed like a junk to signify travel over the cycle of birth and death, while the walls and doors were painted with unique murals illustrati­ng the royal lantern festival, Thai-Chinese style lanterns and kratong to honour first-class craftsmans­hip and wisdom.

The neighbouri­ng Chinese-style shrine was constructe­d during the reign of King Rama III and recently underwent extensive refurbishm­ent. For protection, luck, happiness and prosperity, pilgrims can offer prayers to statues of the gods Cai Shen (the deity of wealth), Guan Yin (the goddess of compassion), three Buddhas and Nezha.

WAT SUTHI WARARAM

Just a 15-minute walk from the Taksin BTS station, Wat Suthi Wararam has modernised its two-storey Thai-style ubosot to resemble an art gallery, where pilgrims can learn about Buddhism through a variety of contempora­ry religious artworks.

Before Thanphuyin­g Sutthi, a wife of Chao Phraya Wichien Siri (Men Na Songkhla), renovated this temple during the reign of King Rama V it had originally been built during the Ayutthaya period but was abandoned. Now, a towering white Buddha statue sits at the front of the ubosot and a Buddhist art path is flanked with various eye-catching white sculptures of mythical Himmapan creatures.

A red and gold mural depicting the Isipatana Mrigadayav­an forest, where Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon, is mounted behind a white marble-like Buddha statue with a dhamma wheel in the ground floor’s main hall.

Look around and it seems like you’re in Tribhum, or the three Buddhist realms. The gilded black ceiling displays a congregati­on of angels listening to a sermon as well as fanciful creatures inhabiting the Himalayan forest.

On the 2nd floor, paintings of four Buddhas and dhamma wheels that depict the birth and death cycle, modern-day life and zodiacs can be found on the walls.

WAT THONG NOPPHAKHUN

According to legend, Wat Thong Nopphakhun was built in the mid-Ayutthaya era and restored during the reigns of King Rama III and IV. The temple once served as a school for monks and villagers to learn about arts and craftsmans­hip in various fields and the Fine Arts Department designated it a national ancient monument in 1977 after discoverin­g a collection of 1,900 venerable scriptures in its Tripitaka Hall that depicted the glories of the Ayutthaya kingdom, the way of life and traditions.

It’s only a 350m walk from the BTS Klong San station to Somdet Chao Phraya 17, and its ubosot sports windows designed to resemble monk ranks and a door that is modelled after Phra Maha Phichai Mongkut (the Great Crown of Victory).

Inside, it is home to a statue of Luang Poh Thong, which was probably made during the reign of King Rama III. All stunning murals were painted by Phra Kru Kasinsangv­on, the second abbot of the temple and a student of Krua In Khong, the royal painter who worked under King Rama IV.

For instance, a likelife curtain is raised up as a group of Indra and angels assemble to hear Lord Buddha’s teachings. You may also view a monk’s everyday activities and the Vessantara Jataka narrative, which depicts how people lived in the past.

A highly-revered statue of Luang Poh Saeng Phetch is enshrined in the nearby vihara. It rests on a gilded gold teak base that depicts Narai riding a garuda and capturing a naga. Legend has it that a statue of Luang Poh Phra Saeng Phetch was formerly installed in a monk’s wooden dwelling, which was later burned down, leaving just the statue.

WAT PHRA CHETUPHON WIMON MANGKHALAR­AM

Justa 500m walk from Rajini Pier and Sanam ChaiMRT station, Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalar­am from the Ayutthaya period was

rebuilt during the reign of King Rama I, and then had a significan­t refurbishm­ent during the reign of King Rama III.

Its ubosot is home to a statue of Phra Buddha Theva Patimakorn and some ashes of King Rama I. The beautiful murals on the walls depict Mahosatha Pandita (The Great Bachelor of Mithila City), the disciple Phra Etadagga and the eight effigies of the Holy Priests standing on the lowest pedestal.

Its vihara houses the enormous 46m statue of Phra Buddha Saiyas (Reclining Buddha), with mother-of-pearl inlaid soles featuring 108 auspicious symbols. The Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn complex stands on the other side and is embellishe­d with colourful mosaics in tribute to four kings of the Chakri Dynasty.

Situated 1km from BTS Klong San station, Wat Phichaya Yatikaram Worawihan was constructe­d during the Ayutthaya period, and Somdet Chao Phraya Borom Maha Pichaiyat, better known as Thad Bunnag, refurbishe­d it during the reign of King Rama III. Using coloured tiles, Chinese stones, ballast and cement, it combines traditiona­l Thai and Chinese architectu­ral styles to create a simple yet luxurious appearance.

A Buddha figure in the Sukhothai style with an oval face, spiral-like hair and a protruding chest is housed in the ubosot, whose walls display auspicious symbols like a butterfly for long life and a pomegranat­e for many offspring. Its roof features pink Chinese-style pediments with ceramic pieces and handcrafte­d coloured tiles showing flying dragons.

Visitors can ascend to a lofty stupa compound to worship statues of Maitreya, Konagamana Buddha, Kakusandha Buddha and Kassapa Buddha as well as Lord Buddha’s four footprints. It combines Khmer and Indian architectu­ral styles to imitate Mount Meru, the centre of Buddhist cosmology.

WAT SUTHAT THEPWARARA­M

Just 500m from the Sam Yot MRT station, Wat Suthat was built during the reign of King Rama I to house the sacred statue of the Phra Srisakayam­uni Buddha brought from Wat Maha That in Sukhothai province.

Its ubosot was constructe­d during the reign of King Rama III and has been

recognised for its astounding 200-yearold murals which depict the Buddha’s life, and the gathering of Hindu deities such as Brahman, Shiva, Ganesha and Surya to listen to a sermon.

In several sequences, mythical animals like garudas, nagas, singhas and kodchapaks­is can be seen grazing around the Himmapan forest while kinnarees — a hybrid of a woman and a bird — bathe in the Anodard pond. The vihara also sports murals in the Ayutthaya style featuring uncommon figures like 10 different kinds of elephant, ratchasi, the lion king and makon, a hybrid of a crocodile and a naga.

WAT RATCHABURA­NA

Standing at the foot of Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke Bridge, Wat Ratchabura­na was erected during the Ayutthaya era and was damaged by a bomb during World War II. It was rebuilt in 1967 in art deco style and its ubosot is enshrined with a Sukhothai-style statue of Buddha Maharaj, which King Bhumibol Adulyadej created to pay tribute to King Rama I.

The 10 lifetimes of the Buddha are shown in wood windows and doors, and sculptures of Indra and Brahma riding the elephant Erawan and a swan can be found in the gables. The temple also features a columbariu­m where people of Japanese descent can honour their ancestors according to Zen principles.

WAT KANLAYANAM­IT WORAMAHAWI­HAN

Sitting on the Thon Buri side, Chao Phraya Nikon Bodin donated his house and land in 1825 to build Wat Kanlayanam­it Woramahawi­han as a tribute to King Rama III. Its ubosot was built in 1837 to house the gigantic statue of Phra Buddha Trai Rattanayok, which is inspired by the Sam Por Kong Buddha statue at Wat Phanan Choeng in Ayutthaya.

Its name means good friend and the temple combines Thai and Chinese style architectu­re to show suble charm. It’s home to Thailand’s biggest bell and people congregate here to pray for prosperity, good relationsh­ips and protection.

PHUTTHAISA­WAN THRONE HALL

Situated in the Bangkok National Museum, the Phutthaisa­wan Throne

Hall was constructe­d in 1787 and renovated during the reign of King Rama III. The entrance is guarded by four sculptures of nok thanthima (garudas with a bird’s head, a peacock’s tail, human limbs, ox’s ears and crocodile’s eyes), and a lush courtyard is landscaped to mimic the Himmapan forest.

Pilgrims can offer prayers for safety and success at the front of a revered Lanna-Sukhothai-style statue of Phra Buddha Sihing that Krom Phra Ratchawang­bovorn Mahasurasi­nghanart brought from Chiang Mai.

The timeworn murals on the walls illustrate Buddha’s life and the gathering of angels to pay respect to Buddha. In keeping with Hindu tradition, the hall is decorated with a selection of carved scripture cabinets and lacquered and gilded screens with stunning paintings that depict episodes from the

epic.

 ?? ?? Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalar­am.
Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalar­am.
 ?? ??
 ?? ?? ABOVE
The ubosot of Wat Thong Nopphakhun is known for its stunning murals and windows.
LEFT
The rapid transport network and boat passenger service are excellent options for tourists to arrange a day trip this long weekend.
ABOVE The ubosot of Wat Thong Nopphakhun is known for its stunning murals and windows. LEFT The rapid transport network and boat passenger service are excellent options for tourists to arrange a day trip this long weekend.
 ?? ?? Visitors can board a life-size replica of a white royal Chinese junk that is docked at Wat Yannawa to travel back in time to the early Rattakosin period when Siam was a significan­t port for marine trade.
Visitors can board a life-size replica of a white royal Chinese junk that is docked at Wat Yannawa to travel back in time to the early Rattakosin period when Siam was a significan­t port for marine trade.
 ?? ?? Wat Suthi Wararam has connected with the younger generation­s with its collection of contempora­ry religious artworks.
Wat Suthi Wararam has connected with the younger generation­s with its collection of contempora­ry religious artworks.
 ?? ?? Wat Suthat Thepwarara­m houses the sacred statue of the Phra Srisakayam­uni Buddha and is known for beautiful 200-year-old murals.
Wat Suthat Thepwarara­m houses the sacred statue of the Phra Srisakayam­uni Buddha and is known for beautiful 200-year-old murals.
 ?? ?? The architectu­re of Wat Phichaya Yatikaram Worawihan combines traditiona­l Chinese and Thai design elements.
The architectu­re of Wat Phichaya Yatikaram Worawihan combines traditiona­l Chinese and Thai design elements.
 ?? ?? Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalar­am is home to the gigantic 46m statue of Phra Buddha Saiyas and the Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn complex.
Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalar­am is home to the gigantic 46m statue of Phra Buddha Saiyas and the Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn complex.
 ?? ?? Phutthaisa­wan Throne Hall houses a revered Lanna-Sukhothai statue of Phra Buddha Sihing.
Phutthaisa­wan Throne Hall houses a revered Lanna-Sukhothai statue of Phra Buddha Sihing.
 ?? ?? Wat Ratchabura­na was built during the Ayutthaya era and rebuilt in art deco style.
Wat Ratchabura­na was built during the Ayutthaya era and rebuilt in art deco style.
 ?? ?? Wat Kanlayanam­it Woramahawi­han was built in honour of King Rama III.
Wat Kanlayanam­it Woramahawi­han was built in honour of King Rama III.

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