Chatuchak Market

Weekend Market - Sat & Sun, and Fri nights 6pm-midnight are the official days, although over a third of stallholders open Fri afternoons to sell to wholesalers; it’s saner and the public are welcome (see below for Skytrain/mrt subway stations).

Okay, stop your grinnin’ and drop your linen. There’s no air-con, it’s hot, it’s sticky, but it’s worth it. Be in by 9.30am and out by noon latest. If you get split up, plan to meet at the clock tower; if you’re on your own, scream violently and run about panicking. It’s utterly intimidating to the novice and the size of the Superbowl, so do not just enter the market any old place, many have never been seen again. Have your cab drive along the edge of the market until you see the Main Gate (Gate 3) just down from the Skytrain station Mo Chit. If you arrive by Skytrain, take Exit 1, the park should be on your right, walk along, you’ll cross two roads (the 2nd is Kamphaeng Phet 3), go under a footbridge and arrive at the main gate. If you’re arriving by subway, take Chatuchak station, Exit 1, make a right at the exit, and follow the same path. (Or, take the subway to Kamphaeng Phet station, Exit 2, which will take you right inside the market to the end of Section 2 (see below)). Look up, that’s the clock tower, get your bearings. Walk in and turn immediate left just past the toilets and through the food sellers into the 1st row of stalls in Section 3, not the main path. Do NOT venture into the centre section (that way madness lies).

Meander and dabble and STAY in these two outer lanes. Work your way down and eventually you’ll come to Section 2 where Karmakamet is (see Standout Stores). Soon in the outer lane (nearest the road) you’ll see stone seats and little cafés. Watch for the little spirit house built against a tree and now take a right, heading out onto the interior road that circles the central market. (If you took the subway to Kamphaeng Phet station, Exit 2, you’ll enter the market here). Follow round the bend and look to the right to the main covered market; on the roof about a third of the way down you’ll see a sign that says Section 26 - enter directly under this sign. Work the lanes up as far as the cross lane, turn left and then work back down, always working to the left. Here you’ll find antiques and fabrics and lots of nice things, (rather than bacon-striped underpants and dead squirrels like the rest of the market). By now you’ll be drier than a rattlesnake’s chuff. Nip into Viva bar for a moist towelette (it’s six lanes to the left of the Section 26 sign and about four stalls in). Restored? Okay, forge onwards and outwards, working left to the perimeter, where you’ll see a bike park. Stay in the market, turn right and edge along dipping in when and where you please with a max. of two lanes depth. Eventually at the very end you’ll see Gate 2 Exit in front of you. Now, options: Section 7 to your left is quieter than the main market and well worth braving. The first two sois contain a flourishing contempo art scene, and the rest of the section is chokka with boho lifestyle and cafés. Or, head right into Section 8 and 200m down takes you to another Viva, plus sis Aviv next door for fab leather totes (see Adv. Shop.), and Jeed-jard next door for spicy Isaan noodles if you’re famished. Call your driver to meet at Gate 2 (Kamphaeng Phet 3) while you relax, or just grab a cab. Well played, Olympic shopper!