TURN OF THE CENTURY
Bulgari’s new feminine watches best encapsulates its identity as a jeweller and watchmaker. Not merely beautiful, they are also lavished with technical details, observes melainne chiew
to mark the 100th anniversary since its first jewellery watch, Bulgari’s new feminine watches offer more than meets the eye. Headlining the reveal at Baselworld were two exciting additions to the Lvcea family: Lvcea Tubogas and Lvcea Skeleton. The spotlight was also on the breathtaking (and technically beautiful) Divas’ Dream, as well as the illustrious Serpenti, which notably honoured its heritage with a striking new tri-coloured edition.
The new Lvcea Tubogas is the first design that fuses the Lvcea watch and the Tubogas bracelet. Introduced in a watch in the 1940s, the Tubogas bracelet, which means “gas pipe”, is a complex production. It features unsoldered bands of gold or steel wrapped tightly around a steel core, concealing it completely. Once more often associated with the Serpenti in the guise of seductive, snake-like coils, the Tubogas bracelet now perks up the elegant round face of the Lvcea with its industrial-chic aesthetic. Available in five variants of steel, 18k rose gold and diamonds, the modern interpretation is powered by a proprietary Calibre B046 quartz movement in the 28mm models, or an automatic Calibre B77 in the 33mm versions. All five new Lvcea Tubogas iterations flaunt diamond hour markers and a crown set with a pink cabochon-cut gemstone. Bulgari combines its jeweller’s sensibility with its horological expertise on the new Lvcea Skeleton, the first openworked Lvcea. Playing on the logomania trend, the automatic BVL 191SK, an in-house movement oscillating at a frequency of 28,800vph, takes the form of Bulgari’s logo, plated in rose gold, with or without diamonds. Red lacquered hands sweep
clockwise around the openworked dial like a pop of colour, visually anchored by a matching pink cabochon-cut stone and a brilliantcut diamond on its crown. The Lvcea Skeleton is offered in three variants of steel and 18k rose gold, the latter with or without diamonds.
Another significant update is the Divas’ Dream collection, which introduces a divine duo that is both aesthetically splendid and technically impressive. The first is the Diva Finissima Minute Repeater, which captivates with its urushi lacquered black dial, magnificently speckled with gold dust. Set in 18k rose gold, the watch bears an enchanting blanket of diamonds on its bezel, hour indexes and sub seconds counter. More importantly, this 10-piece limited edition is more than decorative, beating with the wafer-thin proprietary Calibre BVL 362 Finissimo minute repeater movement. Once exclusive to the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, the manual-winding movement features the hours, minutes and seconds chiming on demand.
Not to be outdone, the new Divas’ Dream Phoenix Tourbillon shows off a hand-painted phoenix soaring majestically over wild, red flames. Encased in diamond-set 18k rose gold, this gorgeous vision lies amid an openworked dial, with a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Limited to 50 pieces, the Phoenix Tourbillon is fitted with the manual-winding Calibre BVL 208, a manufacture skeletonised tourbillon movement with a power reserve of 64 hours.
Of course, no mention of Bulgari’s ladies watches is complete without the Serpenti. This year’s stunning additions include the Serpenti Spiga Ceramic watches. Coiling around the wrist in snake-like fashion, the seductive watches are offered for the first time with a five-tour black ceramic bracelet, or a double-tour black or white ceramic bracelet, with matching lacquered dials. For an extra touch of pizzazz, the five-tour black ceramic bracelet has been further vivified with flashes of 18k rose gold and brilliant-cut diamonds. As with other Serpenti watches, all three variants are driven by a Bulgaripersonalised high-precision quartz movement.
Other Serpenti offerings this season include the Serpenti Tubogas 3 Gold Colours in a nostalgic throwback to its tricoloured pieces from the 1960s. The watch showcases its signature Tubogas double-tour bracelet in a combination of 18k yellow, white and rose gold, while brilliant-cut diamonds glisten on either side of the rose gold case. For a more classic look, the Serpenti Tubogas is also available in just 18k rose gold, with a single- or doubletour bracelet and a diamond-set 18k rose gold case. Rounding out the collection are additions to the highly customisable Serpenti Twist Your Time watches, featuring interchangeable four-tour straps in metallic calfskin or 18k rose gold chains, with the 27mm case offered in variants of 18k rose gold and steel, with or without diamonds.
Founded in 1884, it wasn’t until 1918 did Bulgari unveil its very first jewellery watch — a petite, diamond-set platinum watch with a rectangular-shaped dial. Cascading in diamonds from its bezel to its delicate, looped bracelet, the timepiece was every inch a dazzling statement maker, and marked Bulgari’s beginning in feminine jewellery watchmaking. A century on, and the new models signify a progression from merely visual embellishments, embodying the technical depth that have otherwise been lacking in conventionally aesthetic-focused feminine watches.