CLASSIC INSPIRATION
With its round and graphic lines, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS’ Bouton d’or collection has its origins in the “paillette” motif, first introduced by the Maison in 1936 on necklaces and clips
today, the bouton d’or jewellery collection is enriched with five dazzling creations that offer a graphic interpretation of the “paillette” motif that Van Cleef & Arpels has cherished since the 1930s. Diamonds, yellow gold, turquoise and lapis lazuli come together on bold, feminine pieces endowed with unique expertise. From the precious metal workmanship to the intricate assembly of the various elements, each one reflects the virtuosity of Van Cleef & Arpels.
Embodying a summery modern style, original interplays of materials bring a new touch of colour and radiance to the Bouton d’or collection. The intensity of turquoise and the depth of lapis lazuli complement the warm glow of yellow gold. Sparkling diamonds also grace the pieces, which offer an elegant combination of hard and precious stones.
A profusion of concave and convex motifs endows the creations with an effect of fluidity and relief: a necklace, a ring, a bracelet, earrings and a generously proportioned pendant. The elements come together to drape themselves delicately around the neckline or wrist, setting up a gradation of blue and gold tones.
Evoking the sequins fashionable in the 1930s, the Bouton d’or pieces were made up of a pastille of yellow gold with a precious stone set at its center. During the 1940s, Van Cleef & Arpels offered the motif in various forms: accumulated on a rounded ring, spread along the strands of an opulent necklace or forming a sparkling bouquet on a three-dimensional clip. Set with coloured stones (rubies, but also turquoise), they contributed a refined volume effect to the skirts of the ballerina clips created by the Maison in the same period.
This joyful, sun-like design enjoyed continued success in the 1950s. From simple or double bracelets to earrings draped with “paillette” motifs, the creations’ fluid lines complemented the graceful, feminine outfits of the time.
All Van Cleef & Arpels’ jewellery-making expertise finds expression in the Bouton d’or collection, which calls for careful selection and matching of the motifs. For turquoise and lapis lazuli, the Maison is particularly attentive to the consistency and intensity of the colour: the shades and opacity of the selected stones must form a harmonious blend.
Very rare, turquoise is much appreciated by the Maison for its distinctive blue hue, evoking the sea or sky. A symbol of protection and affection, it is here associated with lapis lazuli, which darkens the creations’ palette with its midnight blue shade, discretely sprinkled with flecks of pyrite.
Set in the heart of each pastille, the diamonds have been chosen in keeping with Van Cleef & Arpels’ criteria of excellence: D,E or F for colour, IF or VVS for clarity. Glittering against the background of yellow gold, they illuminate the creations with a vivid radiance.
Bringing the Bouton d’or pieces to life calls for extremely precise savoirfaire. The yellow gold motifs and jewellery structure are worked by hand, before undergoing successive stages of polishing – a particularly delicate process for the concave and convex pastilles. The brilliance of the materials must be revealed, while carefully preserving the form of the motif.
To ensure the creations’ flexibility, the gold and hard stone motifs are assembled in a complicated process. It calls for a precise and agile hand, since hundreds of components – up to a thousand in the case of a necklace – must be joined together. The end result is then carefully examined to ensure that it meets the Maison’s strict criteria for quality and finish.
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