Swiss-Italian chocolate war is ending with sweet truce
ON THURSDAY, the Swiss confectionery powerhouse Lindt announced that it is in discussions with a consortium of artisanal chocolatiers from Italy, indicating the possibility of reaching an agreement that would establish a protected designation for Turin’s renowned Gianduiotto.
The small, creamy mixture of grilled Piedmont hazelnuts, cocoa, and sugar that melts in the mouth has been at the center of a dispute for months.
Lindt has been the owner since 1997 of Italian producer Caffarel, which claims to have invented the Gianduiotto and has blocked a move by a group of local Italian artisan chocolatiers to seek the creation of a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) for the confection in the European Union.
“We are convinced that we can soon reach an agreement on the promotion of the Gianduiotto in Italy and the world,” the head of Lindt and Sprungli Italy, Benedict Riccabona, said in a statement.
A group of around 40 artisan chocolatiers, as well as companies such as Ferrero, Venchi, and Domori, are seeking to obtain a PGI for “Gianduiotto of Turin” to raise the profile of the chocolate, increase sales, already estimated at around 200 million euros ($216 million) a year.
The dispute centered around the recipe, with those seeking the PGI seeking a return to the original recipe of 30% to 45% roasted hazelnuts from Piedmont, at least 25% cocoa,
plus sugar.
But Lindt’s Caffarel adds powdered milk and uses fewer hazelnuts.
The compromise shaping up will allow the creation of the PGI, but with Lindt’s subsidiary not joining but being allowed to continue with its brand “Gianduia 1865, the authentic Gianduiotto of Turin” and its recipe.
Lindt had also previously expressed concerns that PGI would confuse with its brand.
“It’s a major success for the chocolatiers, the region, as well as Caffarel as we are convinced that the recognition of the PGI will increase sales of gianduiotto,” said Antonio Borra, a lawyer for the group seeking the PGI.
He said work is underway with the agriculture ministry to enshrine Lindt’s exception in the PGI rules and that final approval by the European Commission by the end of the year.