Bean that brews wars: Cappucino may be Ottoman creation
The Ottoman Empire played a pivotal role in popularizing coffee, from its introduction in Istanbul in the mid-16th century to the establishment of coffeehouses as vibrant hubs of social interaction and intellectual exchange
TODAY, many sources state that coffee, which has become a pleasant necessity in our daily lives and whose name is combined with the word “Turkish” in many countries, originates from India. It is a tree species reaching 6-8 meters (19-26 feet) in height that bears fruit in the form of seeds.
Experts believe that only 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) of dried coffee is obtained from 15-20 kilograms of fresh coffee. Due to this characteristic, coffee was initially used not as a beverage but as a food, and it came all the way from India to Yemen around the 15th century. It was also recognized in the Islamic world, after Yemen, Arabia and Egypt, only in the 16th century.
In line with this, there is a saying in the Turkish language that reads “coffee comes from Yemen.”
Thus, Turkish people became acquainted with coffee only in the mid-16th century. For instance, the epic Ottoman traveler Evliya Çelebi mentions in his “Travelogue” the presence of 300 coffee depots and about 500 coffeehouse craftsmen in Istanbul then.
WHY FROM YEMEN?
Initially cultivated in Yemen and used in the region for a long time, coffee gained widespread usage throughout the Arabian Peninsula, leading to the opening of the first coffeehouse in Mecca in 1511.
Since alcoholic beverages are forbidden in Islam, the spread of coffee, a hot and fragrant beverage, in Muslim countries was facilitated. The opening of the first coffeehouses next to mosques, frequented by mosque attendees, often made these coffeehouses gathering places for members of the same Sufi orders.
Additionally, the enjoyable aspect of coffee cannot be overlooked, as it facilitates pleasant interactions among people, leading to mutual understanding and familiarity.
THEN CALLED ‘MOCHA’
The spread of coffee as an element for gatherings and relaxation begins here. Europeans, because of the Mecca pilgrimage of Muslims, also referred to another form of the bitter coffee they drank in that region as “mocha.”
Another Turkish saying reads, “A sip of
coffee has a thousand years of memory.” As a memorable and thoughtful treat, coffee quickly spread its reign around the world.
On the other hand, the spread of coffee in the Ottoman territory was also rapid but occasionally problematic. Its entry into Istanbul, the capital, occurred only in the mid-16th century through the agency of the governor-general of Habesh, Özdemir Pasha. This introduction caused quite a stir in the Ottoman capital, and the first coffeehouse was opened in 1554.
The presence of caffeine in coffee, due to its relaxing properties, has caused considerable debate among Islamic scholars. With the spread of coffee in Ottoman territory, especially in Istanbul, and the opening of coffeehouses in every neighborhood of Istanbul during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, the grand mufti of the time, Ebussuud Efendi, issued a fatwa, saying: “It is the drink of deviants who do not recognize the commands of Allah.”
Thus, he issued the first prohibition in the name of religion, declaring it forbidden. Since it became a reality that this substance, with such a delicious taste, was consumed clandestinely and increasingly in coffeehouses opening all over Anatolia, which were called coffeehouses, toward the end of the 16th century, another grand mufti of the time, Bostanzade Mehmet Efendi, stated: “Coffee is not an intoxicating beverage; rather, it is beneficial to health and coffeehouses will not be prohibited.”
After this declaration, the public began to enjoy a sip of coffee comfortably. However,
due to occasional interference by grand muftis, this relaxation could not be fully realized and ultimately, events took their course.
However, the most prolonged and definitive prohibition of coffee consumption in public places came during the reign of the famous Ottoman Sultan Murad IV. Obtaining a decisive fatwa from the grand mufti of the time, Ahizede Hüseyin Efendi, the ruler closed all coffeehouses and taverns in the country in 1633 and punished those who consumed the beverage. Thus, even a cup of coffee was prohibited for the public. Some who disobeyed this prohibition were even executed.
COFFEE TRADE
During this period, all the coffee consumed in Ottoman territories was brought from Yemen, which was again an Ottoman territory. Since this production was not sufficient to meet the consumption of the Ottoman people, coffee production began in other places as well, such as Thailand.
The increase in coffee consumption in Ottoman territories and the spread of coffee in Europe, where Europeans learned about coffee from the Turks, led to increased production worldwide, contributing to this profitable trade.
From the late 17th century onward, with Europeans participating in consumption, coffee production started in Suriname in 1718, Brazil in 1727, Jamaica in 1730, Cuba in 1748, Puerto Rico in 1755, Costa Rica in 1779, Venezuela in 1784 and Mexico in 1790. The products of coffee plantations in the Far
East and Latin America, being cheaper than Yemeni coffee, dominated the market.
As the most expensive coffee, “Kopi Luwak” is obtained from the excrement of an omnivorous mammal called “Paradoxurus” fed in Sumatra and the surrounding islands in Indonesia. The coffee beans undergo fermentation with enzymes in the animal’s stomach and are expelled whole in the animal’s excrement.
One hundred grams of these coffee varieties, in which the animals are fed the best beans from coffee trees, are sold for $75 (TL 2,409).
DEEMED ‘DEVIL’S DRINK’
Furthermore, starting in 1615 with the introduction of coffee brought by Venetian merchants, the Christian world imposed religious prohibitions just like the Ottomans. Considering coffee as the drink of “devils” and accepting it as the drink of these “devils,” the Vatican occasionally intervened to prevent its consumption.
Pope Clement VIII and later Pope Vincent III, despite the popularity and spread of coffee among the people, opposed the restriction on coffee and permitted Christians to drink it.
SIEGE OF VIENNA
Initially, coffee was smuggled into Europe through Italy in the 17th century by Venetian merchants and distributed from there. However, Europeans became familiar with coffee predominantly after the Second Siege of Vienna.
Europeans were not quick to adapt to coffee. First, doctors prohibited its consumption due to its perceived harmful substances. Religious leaders and the church also agreed with this view.
REWARD TO A SPY
In the Dec. 1, 2004 issue of the “HürriyetTarih” magazine, writer Zeynep Dramalı describes the full utilization of coffee by the Ottoman army after the defeat of the Second Siege of Vienna as follows: “Polish Koltschitzky, who wandered as a spy in the Turkish camp, spreading various rumors and establishing contact with Christian forces outside Vienna, received sacks of coffee as a reward for his services.”
“Koltschitzky opened Vienna’s first coffeehouse called the ‘Blue Bottle,’ with the Ottoman coffee he was given, but business was not good at first. Viennese people did not like the taste of coffee at first because it was bitter and unappealing in color. Koltschitzky made Austrians fond of this new beverage by using sugar and serving it with a croissant. After his death, a statue of him was erected wearing Turkish clothing.”
OTTOMAN CAPPUCCINO
The Europeans’ success in the Second Siege of Vienna was greatly attributed to the preaching of priest Marco di Aviano. He found coffee too harsh and bitter, so he added milk and sugar. Out of respect for Marco di Aviano, who was considered the savior of Vienna, Europeans began to refer to this coffee by the name of the “capuchin,” the order to which Marco was affiliated, and they began to call this milky and sweetened frothy coffee “cappuccino.”
Over time, coffee, initially known and renowned as Turkish coffee, has gradually maintained its dominance in various flavors and forms for 300 years. Today, coffee, which is considered a social necessity created by the modern world, has a predominant place. Among the most important coffee vendors is the Austrian coffee maker Julius Meinl, who serves coffee to 3,000 people daily in 30,000 establishments in 70 countries and hundreds of cities.
TURKISH SERVING
In Turkish society, serving coffee to someone has always been ceremonial. In the old Ottoman house and cafe culture, coffee roasting (single or double-roasted) and brewing hold an important place. To be consumed by an enthusiast, the coffee is brewed over low heat for 10-15 minutes. Later, a sugary drink began to be served before or after the strong coffee, and these practices are still prevalent today.
Alongside the coffee, syrupy drinks, Turkish delights, and special treats are also still served. In some regions, the aroma of coffee is enriched by adding cloves, amber and jasmine. Especially in Turkish society, when asking for a girl’s hand in marriage, it became a tradition for the girl of the house to prepare and serve the coffee for the guests.