Relaxed

The quintessential Istanbul eating experience is meze (mixed starters) at a meyhane (taverna). The city is packed with them, but the ones along bustling Nevizade Sok. just behind sweet Çiçek Pasaji (Flower Passage) on Istiklal Cad. in Beyog˘lu are authentic and lively (see Shop./Çukurcuma). Boncuk, Neyle Meyle and Imroz are among the best, but all serve excellent fare (plus seafood), just point and pick. Raki (anise jet-fuel) is the trad accompaniment to meze, and the best way to enjoy it is to make someone else drink it. Boho chicsters can head to nearby Refik (see below).