LAUSANNE: A JEWEL BY THE LAKE
LAUSANNE SURPRISES THOSE VISITORS WHO ONLY EXPECT TO SEE A PASTORAL VIEW BY PRESENTING THEM WITH AN ENERGETIC URBAN PORTRAIT. MOREOVER, YOU WISH TIME WOULD FLOW SLOWER AS YOU WANDER AROUND ITS LOVELY VILLAGES, EACH MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN THE OTHER.
The sense of melancholy caused by the fog which descends upon the slopes of snowy hills by Lake Geneva, also known as Lake Léman, is slowly lifting.
I see white boats docked at the harbor, their sails tied around the poles. They seem to be in winter sleep.
The air changes when a group of singing college students passes me by. I remember the summer days as I think about the young students at language centers and private academies in the city -always in motion on skateboards or Rollerblades by Port Ouchy. They come from all across the world to be master chefs or tech geniuses, filling Lausanne with festivals, concerts, and exhibitions.
This is actually a good summary of Lausanne, which is simultaneously home to a cosmopolitan world and the rule of nature in rural areas. This balance, mostly shaped by the lake, is completed by museums and Gothic structures. The most vibrant museum is, of course, the Olympic Museum. It hosts halls that tell the history of the Olympic Games from the first edition in Greece to the present and sections to excite every athlete and sports fan. Olympic medals and flames,
the winning athletes’ memorabilia, and footage from the past years on giant screens are only a few of its highlights. What I enjoy the most is the movie Inside the Race on a 180-degree giant screen. Athletes jumping into the sky with poles in their hands, skiers taking off by splattering snow around them, thrilled spectators, swimmers diving into pools -all flash before my eyes. I feel reenergized after my tour around the museum.
Having mentioned energy, I think about famous dancer and choreographer Maurice Béjart. The company of Béjart Ballet Lausanne, which he founded here in
1987, transformed him into an icon of modern dance on account of his unlimited energy on stage. I head for the ticket office at the Lausanne Opera to watch a performance by this company, which gains more praise with each new show. Unfortunately, the earliest available tickets are for months later!
Next comes my list of landmarks around the city. I memorize the view of the lake from the garden of
Fondation de l’hermitage and go inside. Built by banker Charles-juste Bugnion on a land he bought in 1841, the mansion currently hosts valuable artworks and exhibitions. The foundation has welcomed paintings by prominent artists from Signac to Manguin with temporary exhibitions. It prepares to present art enthusiasts a selection of British painters with a fourmonth exhibition beginning in early February. It feels as if the museum hosts an artistic parade with painters such as Turner, Whistler, Millais, and Alma-tadema.
What takes me from the colors of the 19th century back to the 12th century is the nearby Notre-dame Cathedral. The stained glass on the cathedral’s rose window is beautiful enough to rival the paintings I have just seen. A recital at this Gothic cathedral, renowned for its 7,000-pipe church organ and its impressive sound, makes it easier to think about dreams that date back centuries. The cathedral also keeps the rare tradition of the night watch alive. Every night between 10 p.m. and midnight, a watchman stands guard on the cathedral tower. If you’re curious about the city’s contemporary art scene, you can also stop by the Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts near the cathedral. Known in short as “mudac,” the museum hosts an exhibition titled Nez à Nez. Contemporary Perfumers, scheduled to open on February 15, that
explores the careers and creative processes of perfumers. I continue walking around the city center, follow the staircase Escaliers du Marché, arguably the most photogenic street in Lausanne, and arrive at Place de la Palud. I pass by the animated clock showcasing the history of Vaud every hour and mingle with the crowd filling the back alleys to do some shopping.
Along with Place de la Palud, Flon is one of Lausanne’s liveliest districts. This is an example of the city’s architectural achievements: the new social living spaces, transformed from old warehouses, are a universal point of attraction. The district combines its industrial past with a modern twist, becoming a happy meeting place for tourists, youth, elders, businesspeople, and artists. Business meetings here often take place at one of Flon’s many restaurants while enjoying a hearty lunch or dinner. The tables are filled with businesspeople talking about the daily gold market or making predictions of future oil prices, alongside clubbers and hipsters. The menus offer local staples such as fondue and fera (fish from the lake) but also pricey fusion dishes of international cuisine. Whether you are looking for a refined gastronomic experience or more casual dining, you will find it in Flon. I opt for La Table D’edgard, the Michelin-starred restaurant inside the historic hotel Lausanne Palace. Chef Edgard Bovier
serves a magnificent signature menu -make sure to try beef with black truffle. I enjoy my meal accompanied by a view of Lake Léman and the Alps. Every season, Lausanne hosts must-visit events for those interested in gastronomy. During summer, the Lausanne à Table festival turns the city into a gourmet wonderland with workshops, guided tours, various gastronomic festivals, and private dining in exceptional places. For those with a sweet tooth, artisan chocolatiers like Blondel, which was founded in 1850, and establishments like GEA offering artisanal gelato in classical but also surprising new flavors guarantee a tasty experience.
Collection de l’art Brut is another place that deserves a visit in Lausanne. This unique gallery exhibits artworks by “outcasts”, “failures”, or ordinary people without any loyalty to artistic movements. So, it’s sort of hard to describe.
On my way back to Ouchy, I am mesmerized by the grandiose medieval architecture of the buildings. At times, a glimpse of the shimmering waters of Lake Geneva reminds me of my last stop. Once a little fishing village, Ouchy is now the city’s main lakeside promenade. Dotted with magnificent hotels, villas, and emblematic buildings such as the Olympic Museum, Ouchy will cause your path to cross with that of celebrities and the jet set. The Lausannois love to come hevre especially during the weekends to enjoy life. Those who wish to dine at a hotel as magnificent as a palace should book a table at the fine dining restaurant Anne-sophie Pic at Beau-rivage Palace. Business lunch, served between Tuesdays and Fridays, is a special menu designed for business meals in Lausanne.
Lausanne is also home to one of the most famous science and technology centers in Europe: École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL). It is one of the city’s most dynamic educational institutions. Its Rolex Learning Center is not only a learning hub but also an architectural highlight where visitors can attend guided tours. The Swisstech Convention Center, also on the EPFL’S campus, hosts many international events within its high-tech facilities.
Excursions to the villages and towns surrounding Lausanne serve as doors to happiness. Nyon, bearing the traces of the Roman Empire; Rolle with its 13th-century castle; Tolochenaz, home to the museum-house where actress Audrey Hepburn, still regarded as an icon of elegance and style, spent the last 30 years of her life; Lavaux, one of the most photogenic places in Switzerland; the medieval town of Gruyères known for its cheese production; and Vevey that hosts the headquarters of Nestle are only a few of them. Corsier, situated near Vevey, is home to the statue and tomb of Charlie Chaplin, who lived here for 25 years. Montreux, one of the country’s most famous resort towns, is only 25 kilometers from Lausanne. Chillon Castle, an essential icon in postcards, is also here. There’s also the prominent and legendary Montreux Jazz Festival praised by music fans. This year the festival will be held between June 28 and July 13, so make sure to get your tickets in advance. There’s another option if you’re too excited to wait for summer -Cully Jazz Festival held between April 5 and 13.
In short, it’s hard to find an excuse not to visit Lausanne rather than the other way around!