Lis­bon Tom Ot­ley tra­verses the Por­tuguese cap­i­tal by tram, dis­cov­er­ing colo­nial trea­sures and de­vour­ing cus­tard tarts

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well as beau­ti­ful fres­coed rooms, chapels and gal­leries. It also has a rooftop with a stun­ning view over the Ta­gus river and the city. Largo de Sao Vi­cente; en­try 5.

2PRACO DO COMERCIO Every visi­tor to Lis­bon heads for the Praco do Comercio (Com­merce Square). Built af­ter the earth­quake and flood of 1755 that dev­as­tated the city, it has been ren­o­vated over the past decade so that the yel­low stucco build­ings and heroic stat­ues can stand proud against the on­slaught of tourists and selfie sticks. Run­ning north is the shop­ping street of Rua Au­gusta.

You can pick up the metro here, but for a more scenic route take the 15E tram west to Belem – a 15-minute ride with good views to the Ta­gus and along the water­front. Be­fore you do, stop for a drink un­der the ar­cade at Mart­inho da Ar­cada (Praca do Comercio 3), dat­ing from 1782 and once the favourite haunt of Por­tuguese writer Fer­nando Pes­soa. De­pend­ing on the time of day, or your con­sti­tu­tion, have a cof­fee or a Gin­jinha – the lo­cal cherry brandy, served chilled.

3BELEM You could spend four hours in Belem alone, tak­ing in at­trac­tions such as the 16th-cen­tury Belem Tower, the out­stand­ing UNESCO site of the Jeron­i­mos Monastery, and the Dis­cov­er­ies Mon­u­ment, built in 1960 to com­mem­o­rate the 500th an­niver­sary of the death of Prince Henry the Nav­i­ga­tor, pro­mo­tor of the Dis­cov­er­ies. Take time to check out the art in the Museu Cole­cao Ber­ardo (open 10am-7pm; free en­try; en.museu­ber­ Ex­hi­bi­tions change reg­u­larly, but

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