Lisbon Tom Otley traverses the Portuguese capital by tram, discovering colonial treasures and devouring custard tarts

well as beautiful frescoed rooms, chapels and galleries. It also has a rooftop with a stunning view over the Tagus river and the city. Largo de Sao Vicente; entry 5.

2PRACO DO COMERCIO Every visitor to Lisbon heads for the Praco do Comercio (Commerce Square). Built after the earthquake and flood of 1755 that devastated the city, it has been renovated over the past decade so that the yellow stucco buildings and heroic statues can stand proud against the onslaught of tourists and selfie sticks. Running north is the shopping street of Rua Augusta.

You can pick up the metro here, but for a more scenic route take the 15E tram west to Belem – a 15-minute ride with good views to the Tagus and along the waterfront. Before you do, stop for a drink under the arcade at Martinho da Arcada (Praca do Comercio 3), dating from 1782 and once the favourite haunt of Portuguese writer Fernando Pessoa. Depending on the time of day, or your constitution, have a coffee or a Ginjinha – the local cherry brandy, served chilled.

3BELEM You could spend four hours in Belem alone, taking in attractions such as the 16th-century Belem Tower, the outstanding UNESCO site of the Jeronimos Monastery, and the Discoveries Monument, built in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator, promotor of the Discoveries. Take time to check out the art in the Museu Colecao Berardo (open 10am-7pm; free entry; en.museuberardo.pt). Exhibitions change regularly, but