Victoria’s collection revisits her classic chic

For the spring-summer 2019 season, Victoria Beckham is revisiting the classic chic that made her name in the business. “This collection looks back, but also forward - it explores the codes of the brand, the identity I’ve built up over the 10 years since my first show,” she said. “Fluid lines, a mix of masculine and feminine, print, an arresting mix of unusual colours - these are our codes.” Her collection plays on contrasts by mixing her favourite shades, black, white and grey, with ethereal blue and ruby tones. “It’s also a collection about choice: there are slender and wide trousers, midi and full-length skirts, eased shapes and fitted forms. Brocade and satin, tailoring and fluidity,” she said. “There’s a lightness throughout that feels modern. It’s about dressing not our woman but our women - reflected in our cast this season, as well as embedded in the clothes.”

While the designer said the show wasn’t meant “as a retrospective in any way,” the collection featured some of her greatest hits and signature looks. Beckham called them her brand’s “codes”: masculine tailoring offset by delicate lacy camisoles, fluid, minimal backless gowns and trousers that came in a slouchy wide leg or slim with mini flares. All the models wore their hair slicked back, the way Beckham likes to style hers. The palette, like the shapes, was lean and pared down. A mannish cream wide-leg trouser suit opened the show; an all-black ensemble closed it. In between were neutral tones, subdued prints and flashes of red. An unusual combination of sky blue paired with mud brown effectively drew the eye.

When it came time to take a bow, Beckham walked up to her husband, retired soccer star David Beckham, and their children who were seated among the guests, giving them kisses, hugs and a thumbs-up. Beckham was visibly excited and proud to be showing on home turf among her nearest and dearest. “I have family members who have never seen what I do,” she said afterward.

While she has dressed everyone from Melania Trump to Lady Gaga, boasts sales in dozens of countries and has been honoured by Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II for her services to fashion, Beckham said she’s still got a lot of work to do. “I’m probably more and more nervous each season,” she told reporters. After the show, a dozen or so animal rights activists shouted “Shame on Victoria Beckham.” Sunday’s show didn’t appear to include fur.