City Times

PIPING HOT, FROM THE LANES OF OLD DELHI

- michael@khaleejtim­es.com MICHAEL GOMES

THOUGH DUBAI IS BRIMMING WITH restaurant­s, every now and then, you hear of a new eatery opening its doors to a new experience. Among the latest addition to the city’s Asian dining scene is Purani Dilli at Four Points by Sheraton Downtown, Bur Dubai.

The place aims to recreate the famed cuisine from the bylanes of old Delhi (mainly flavours from the royal Mughal kitchens to Old Delhi’s most revered specialiti­es). And the best part is they’ve toned down the spices to suit the palates of diners here.

So what’s on the menu? Firstly, non-urdu speakers, be prepared to go through hardto-pronouce titles of dishes (perhaps inspired by Mughal emperor Akbar’s khansama/ chef). Titles like Nemat E Zameen (vegetarian dishes) or Rehmat E Sehat (food for health) feature prominentl­y on the menu card. The eatery offers an assortment of appetizers, hearty mains like nihari, biryani, korma, kebabs, tikka and desserts. Expect to go through a smogasboar­d of meats inspired by the recipes from the famed kitchens of Chandni Chowk and Jama Masjid (guess that was the staple of the Mughals). However, these recipes have stood the test of time and continue to wow foodies world over.

As far as the interiors go, don’t expect to experience the grandeur or the opulence of the Mughal courts (like something out of the Bollywood classic Mughal-e-azam). The décor is modern and minimalist­ic, with only the band stage inspired by Mughal architectu­re. However, as you walk through the lobby, you will find Insta-worthy props like an ‘authentic’ rickshaw (we were told it was flown from Delhi and assembled piece-by piece here) and a stall with a bangle maker. And completing the theme is the live entertainm­ent – a duo belting out old Bollywood classics and ghazals.

We began with a ‘liquid’ starter in the form of Phudina Adrak Ki Jam, a rereshing cooler with mint and ginger. And what followed next was literally a procession of meats. So we tucked into a variety of tender, melt-in-your-mouth kebabs like Murgh Tikka Jhangiri (garlic flavoured chicken cubes done in a tandoor), Galawati Kebab (the famed Lucknowi dish known for its melt-in-the-mouth silky minced mutton mix) – a must try dish! Nasheela Jhinga – (red hot spicy prawns).

The meat monotony was, however, broken by a delicious Paneer Pili Mirch Tikka (tandoor cooked cottage cheese cubes laced with delicate spices) and the Dhahi Ki Kebab, a unique take on mildly sweetened hung yoghurt. The highlight of the mains was the Jama Masjid Murgh Biryani. The mildly spiced chicken with aromatic basmati rice blended with ghee stood out for its flavour. We also liked the Murgh Tikka and the Shahi Seekh Kebab for its Mughlai touch. The latter uses an age old recipe from Delhi, and it was delicious. We ended the meal with the popular Shahi Tukda – bread pudding flavoured with spices and cardamom, and the Chukander E Afroz, beetroot with sunflower seeds and reduced milk.

All in all it was an amazing experience, but if I have to go back, it would have to be for the sweet, warm Chukander E Afroz. The perfect, any day, halwa!

 ??  ?? Where: Purani Dilli, Four Points by Sheraton Downtown, Al MankhoolMe­al for two: About Dhs185Cont­act: 050 2116816
Where: Purani Dilli, Four Points by Sheraton Downtown, Al MankhoolMe­al for two: About Dhs185Cont­act: 050 2116816
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