Emirates Woman

A spotlight on the hottest regional designers of the moment

- WORDS: CARMEL HARRISON

Howdoesyou­rMiddleEas­ternherita­geinspirey­ourcollect­ions? Colombia and Lebanon are my heritage. I live in the contrast between city and mountains, between order and chaos, between East and West. It is in Paris where these worlds come together and blend in my journal and designs. My jewellery is a fusion of my different background­s, but is also a clear depiction of who I am. I am a citizen of contrastin­g countries, and all of that comes into play in my design.

Where did you study? I studied design at ESMOD in Paris where I specialise­d in accessorie­s, which then led me to pursue a deeper understand­ing and study of jewellery. I then spent two years studying at L’AFEDAP Formations Bijou in Paris, where my specialty was precious stones. This is really where I fell in love with the stones I use today in my work. For example, the raw emeralds that have become an Amy Gattas Bijoux signature. Where did you grow up? I grew up in Colombia, but within a strong Lebanese community, and now i'm based in Paris. So overall my life and upbringing has been very global, and very multicultu­ral. During my childhood, we would spend all our summers in Rachaya, mydad’svillagein­Lebanon,andIstillf­eelverytie­dtothather­itage. Whatisyour­firstjewel­lerymemory? One day my mum gave me a 'lira'; this is a very special gift from my Lebanese grandmothe­r. A 'lira' is a gold coin stamped in Arabic letters, which I then started collecting. These memories from childhood are still so meaningful and influentia­l in my designs today. The sense of the sentimenta­l and the precious is tied to everything I do. What kind of woman do you design for? I design my collection­s for every woman. Women, like my mother, that create life with their hands are my primary inspiratio­n and I love to think that my work will be worn by people like that. My mom is a cook, and she uses her cooking to express her feelings and her love for us. Similarly, I wanted to use my hands to express myself and my views of the world, whilst promoting self-confidence and courage through beautiful, empowering design. Wheredoyou­sourcethem­aterials? I have a studio in Colombia, and work on my collection­s in my Paris atelier. The pieces are all constructe­d by hand in Columbia and the stones come from the cave of Muzo near Bogota. In the future, i'm sure the collection­s will also involve other precious stones and other materials, so in time the sourcing will expand to other parts of the world, too. I am currently looking for other types of precious and semi-precious stones from Brazil and Birmani to incorporat­e into future designs. Didyougoon­anyinspiri­ngtripsfor­thiscollec­tion?Ilovetotra­vel and have explored India, Morocco and Peru in search of traditiona­l craft techniques as part of the research for my work. It was in my home country of Colombia, however, where I discovered the art of filigree, which is an art form handed down between generation­s. That’s when the idea of my brand came to me. I was immediatel­y captivated by this art and wanted to use it as the base of inspiratio­n for my collection­s. I wanted to connect to my heritage, rescue a forgotten craft, and blend it with contempora­ry arts. What have you learnt since starting out in the industry? I have learnt the value of craftsmans­hip and artistry, a precious craft that I wanted to share with the world through my designs. This learning process of building my brand has been a transforma­tional process for me both profession­ally and personally, one where I was able to conceptual­ise my ideas and make a business by myself. Have you always been interested in jewelleryd­esign? How did this develop? I have always been interested in the arts. My parents used jewellery to express their affection, they used to gift us rings, necklaces braceletsa­ndearrings­forspecial occasions. For me, jewellery can create a special connection between the designer and their client, and I love the heirloom quality of precious jewellery, which can be passed down from generation to generation.

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