The Vanguard

Elizabeth von der Goltz, Global Buying Director of NET-A-PORTER has one of the best eye’s in the business. As the woman who knows what you’ll be wearing season’s ahead of you even seeing it, we spoke to von der Goltz about The Vanguard, NET-A-PORTER’s pro

Tell us about how the concept of The Vanguard came about?

We have always been dedicated to supporting and nurturing young and emerging talent, and the Vanguard programme has enabled us to provide meaningful, structured business support and guidance in the early stages of each brand’s development. As a global online retailer, we have the expertise to nurture and develop brands, not to mention a sense of responsibility. As such, our Vanguard programme creates the perfect ecosystem for new fashion talents, providing cross-departmental mentorship, practical advice and marketing support to enable them to develop a long-lasting business.

Which brands are you particularly proud that you and the team have discovered and how do you usually source new brands?

Since launching The Vanguard in September 2018, it’s been an incredibly rewarding process to witness the young talented brands that we’ve brought into the programme to grow and lay the groundwork for enduring success. We’re incredibly proud looking back over the seasons. For SS20 Christopher John Rogers was hugely exciting, from his debut collection with us to his runway show. There aren’t many young designers doing statement, couturelike clothing at the moment. Looking at the craftsmanship, the silhouettes, the volume – he’s been daring and taken risks. It really caught our eye and our customers loved it.

Gauchère was incredibly popular too, the designer, Marie-Christine Statz’s effortless shapes and easy colour palette make it perfect for anyone looking to invest in pieces both timeless and yet original. Peter Do was a highly-anticipated new designer and brand on site for us. He has an impressive background, as a FIT graduate with stints under Phoebe Philo at Celine, he has such a sophisticated approach to design and uses beautiful craftsmanship and tailoring. We also saw great success from brands such as BITE Studios whose focus is very much on sustainable design, a key focus for us as a business via our NET SUSTAIN platform.

We discover and source new designers in a variety of ways, but Instagram proves to be a key tool. Instagram and fashion are now so closely linked. It has essentially been the democratisation of our industry and has impacted fashion in so many ways. It is a huge source of discovery for us and for so many. It is an incredible platform from which to seek inspiration and discover new talent. Plus it enables us to see what our customers are loving. It’s quite astonishing when you think about the number of new brands we’ve scouted through the platform. However we do still search and discover new brands via shows, showrooms, word of mouth and fringe fashion weeks.

What has been the focus for The Vanguard for FW20 in terms of trends?

For the brands within the Vanguard programme it is less about trends and more about ensuring that they have a signature design DNA that shines through. We were drawn to Jia’s unique healing crystal jewellery which ties in with the wellness trend we have seen surge. Art Club dresses are incredibly wearable and versatile, two things our customer is really considering when she makes a purchase at the moment. We also love the focus on art within her collections. And MINJUKIM has such an experimental approach to design, marrying traditional tailoring with contemporary elements and an exceptional sense of colour.

Which regions are you seeing designers emerge from that is new and interesting globally?

We are seeing some interesting new talent emerge from regions like Australia with Christopher Esber and Art Club, Russia with recently launched Katia Alpha, Belgium with Meryll Rogge and Renaissance Renaissance from Lebanon.

What do you look for in a brand in terms of DNA and attention to detail?

Each season we

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look for designers that have a distinct DNA and aesthetic, with a unique brand story that we feel will really elevate the programme and resonate with our customers. Young brands have to show authenticity in their designs and a directional brand perspective. It is so key for any new designer to develop a signature that they can stay true to, whilst continuing to evolve and develop over time.

Ultimately, we are looking for brands that we believe have the potential to grow into meaningful businesses with a global resonance. The brands we launch each season have been selected because of the impact we think they’re going to have on the fashion landscape. Each are happy that the NET-APORTER teams can be supportive and helpful every step of the way to help them grow.