The Power of Identity
Jewellery designer Nadine Kanso never expected to have her own brand. A desire to express the true Arabic identity celebrating the culture and heritage of the region culminated in the incomparable Bil Arabi
with that because I believe in life we have to go through our own journey and to learn day-byday especially when it’s something new,” she says. “There’s a big pleasure when you do so.”
It’s now been over 14 years since Bil Arabi’s inception and Kanso has continually been able to develop and reinvent the brand with each collection she produces and this is through her sheer determination to produce creative and one-of-a-kind pieces. When she first began designing jewellery, she was the first one to work with Arabic letters and it garnered major attention. “People really related to it,” she recalls. “We’ve managed to adapt and develop with how I design things and with the words I use and the colours I use. There was always something different and something new to offer. I would say it was a classic, yet chic, yet contemporary approach.”
Constantly trying to push the boundaries, Kanso’s approach to business is simple – it’s all about the art of design. For her, the design process includes the calligraphy of Arabic letters, which she then takes and cuts, enlarging them or reworking their typography to create a form which will work with the design she has in mind. It’s not always about creating a collection that must sell, it’s about the creative process to reach an end result that she envisions working for the Bil Arabi brand. “I actually have a collection that is totally unwearable, but the pieces are more forms of art,” she admits. “This is what I try to do. I don’t always make something that’s purely sellable – I push myself to make something different.”
It’s certainly working as not only has Bil Arabi become increasingly popular with consumers, the brand’s pieces are also a huge hit with celebrities including the likes of Kylie Minogue, Zahar Hadid, Kendall Jenner and more. She’s also collaborated with some incredible high-end brands including Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Bernardaud. Most recently she collaborated with Gaga Milano to produce a watch.
However, this ever-growing popularity has resulted in the copying of some of her designs, but instead of hinderance it simply inspires the Lebanese designer to be more creative. “We have had a lot of people copying our work so this is where creativity comes into play,” she says. “This is the most annoying part because people say Arabic is not mine – of course I don’t own the Arabic language and calligraphy, but when other designs come too close to what we do, this is where it becomes challenging. It pushes me towards creating different things – to go three steps ahead and elevate the brand more and more.”
This philosophy on creativity and business is what power means to Kanso. “I find power or strength in how I deal with things. You need to be patient, you need to be balanced, you need to be positive and you need to be reasonable.” It’s a combination of all these aspects that enables a person to move forward, she believes. “These actually make you powerful because when you see things coming your way and you don’t like them, you need to know how to move forward,” she says. “In life, you need to be able to know how to jump over barriers.”
TSheikha Dana Al Khalifa oday, we are more connected than ever. Globally we can access a wealth of everyone from designers to influencers though the power of a DM and so a new era of collaboration has evolved. One of the first in the region to adapt to the rise in social media from the outset, Sheikha Dana Al Khalifa launched TheOverdressed 11 years ago – and has since collaborated with a wealth of key luxury brands.
First inspired to launch her blog in 2009 due to feeling “lost”, the decision changed Al Khalifa’s life forever. With over a decade’s experience in the industry, the blogger and entrepreneur has seen the drastic change in the dynamics that has happened in the social media landscape over the last 10 years. In a world where staying relevant to your followers is key, Al Khalifa has managed to do this with style and integrity working with the brands that she feels fit her own personal brand. From walking down the catwalk with Dolce & Gabbana in 2018, to collaborating with designers like Chloe and Jimmy Choo, Al Khalifa is an expert when it comes to collaboration. Emirates Woman recently caught up with Al Khalifa to discuss all things brand collaboration and the power behind it, what she feels has changed about the online space in the last 11 years and the hurdles she has overcome along the way.
It has been an honour to work with such powerhouse brands. The relationships came about very personally. I like to take a natural approach to things, so dealing with powerhouse brands has been easy and a pleasure because I work with people whom I can now call friends.
To be able to share something I like, with an audience willing to listen is honestly something I am still getting used to. I like bringing to the forefront beautiful things that might have gone amiss because it is not a mega brand. I love niche brands, I like artisanal, to be able to keep these “metiers” alive by bringing to the forefront brands that use them heavily is quite powerful.
I am a serial sharer, it brings me joy to make introductions that people benefit from. I thrive on people telling me, “I still use my bag from the pop up you did of that cool brand.”
I started because I was lost, my life had changed 180 degrees. One minute I was in London working in fine jewellery, studying for my LLM [Master of Law] and living a fast-paced life. I had pangs of homesickness in the midst of it all and was desperate to come back to Bahrain. So, I came back and my life was like a blinking cursor at the beginning of a blank document. I had to do something for my soul, other than my job as a newly graduated junior associate at a law firm.
The OverDressed Pavilion in 2014, collaborating and collating together with incredible jewellery brands. It has been a lot of fun and a lot of work. I learned so much in a short period of time, and continue to do so. But one of my most important moments was when my previous boss walked into the Pavilion and said, “You look much happier doing what you love.”
It lost a lot of the authenticity that came with ‘blogging’; nobody – including myself – writes anymore. The online space has taken a very commercial turn and not for the better. Since COVID-19 hopefully a lot of the funds previously used on influencer visibility will be funnelled to make businesses more sustainable to support local producers of craft.
That you don’t have to fit in a box.
I am driven and determined to create the life I want to live provided by me, for me and my family. My father has worked – and still works – incredibly hard, and from him I learned that success is small successes, little silver linings and many failures. From my husband I learned the intricacies of dealing with people and creating proper financial structures, which I am still very bad at to his utter dismay!
My first major hurdle was starting TheOverdressed. I had no idea where I was going, or what I was going to do, or how I was going to do it, I just knew I wanted to do something different.
The second hurdle was starting TheOverdressed Pavilion, it was such a thrilling yet scary moment. There were times I wondered why I was doing this, and those were the moments that were heavy and demanded a lot from me mentally.
My third hurdle is on its way – stay tuned!
shed a lot of light on things I felt were stagnant. Stay tuned – I am working on something exciting.
Power is influence, respect, kindness and generosity.
Amy Roko isn’t here to be judged by anyone. Having garnered a huge social media following since first emerging on Instagram in 2015, the Saudi Arabian native has become a beacon for many women as she continues to break down stereotypes surrounding females from the GCC region and the niqab. What exactly inspired her to resist stereotypes put upon her for being a niqabi is ironically the exact reason she did it. “Society’s initial resistance towards me inspired that,” she tells Emirates Woman. “I couldn’t imagine that just being myself and who I am would garner pushback. I don’t like being dictated to. I really do what I want, so I started showing people how I live my life to the fullest and based on my rules.”
It’s safe to say Roko – who chooses to keep her identity secret using this pseudonym instead
– is a force to be reckoned with, sharing her comedic sketches which challenge the status quo with her 1.4 million followers on Instagram. Five years into her social media career, Roko has worked on some huge campaigns with notable brands like Benefit Cosmetics, Destination KSA, Levi’s and more. It’s evident the only way is up for this social media sensation. EW recently caught up with the 28-year-old to discuss everything from her sudden social media growth, what misconceptions there are surrounding the niqab and the burqa and what 2020 has been like for her in lockdown. Roko also revealed what it’s like living, as she describes it as a “double life”, and what exactly power means to her.
I gained a very loyal following the moment I joined Instagram. It was unusual to be a niqabi on social media when I first started. All I remember is I gained around 100,000 followers within the first two days and then every time I posted followers jumped around 10,000.
It means women having spaces, energy and resources to do what they want. Letting women do what they want. It means equality. It applies in many different contexts, but simply put, I define it as gender equality.
Every now and then [I feel the pressure]. Now it’s not as scary. When you have the right team and support system around you, you’re encouraged to embrace yourself.
There’s a huge misconception surrounding the niqab. This comes with two main stereotypes: firstly being deeply religious, and secondly being wildly silly (i.e. clownery). I just want to show you can still wear a niqab and be comedic, love fashion and sports if that floats your boat. Niqabis are regular people that just choose to dress differently.
I would love to see continued efforts towards equality. There’s a lot of growth within the GCC towards this vision. More women in leading positions means a more thorough outcome for members of society. That’s what we’re working towards.
It’s been an okay year for me. I’m still creating and posting content, and I guess that’s the beauty of social media – my work happens, for the most part, on my phone. Personal life is good – I have a little bit more time to talk to the people I’m closest to now.
“Do you know that gut feeling that you have, that tells you to do things and not to do things? Trust it. Also, don’t hesitate to post, you’re funny. At least you crack your family up, and hey that’s what matters!”
Keeping my identity a secret. I basically live a double life (cue Hannah Montana theme song). Getting used to the negative comments in the beginning. You can be Nelson Mandela and they’ll still find reasons to hate on you. Getting over the fear of people recognizing me in public and approaching me initially. I love when they do now – they’re always respectful and really sweet!
My YouTube channel. Proud to have gotten it off the ground and running! Rapping professionally. I couldn’t have imagined I’d ever take that step, but I did it with Benefit – the ‘Girl Gang’ music video is my absolute favourite collaboration so far! Acting - super excited about doing a lot more in the coming year.
There will be more music. I’ll be heading to acting. Fire brand collaborations And finally launching my own online store – I’ve got that niqab hook up!
The freedom to live life according to the rules that you set for yourself – not society’s rules, not the culture and tradition’s rules, not people’s rules and definitely not men’s rules. My life, my rules.
FTA offers support across five categories: eveningwear, ready-to-wear, accessories, jewellery and debut talent. Support from FTA comes in many influential forms including financial, mentorship and exposure. We discussed the incredibly powerful work that FTA has achieved in just two years since its launch with Beirut-based Fares.
Since Fashion Trust Arabia launched in 2018, how have things evolved?
There have been many developments since the initial launch. The first year, for example, we had about 275 applicants, and then 600 the following year. And we’ve just launched the application process for the 2021 FTA prize, with a submission deadline scheduled for the end of November 2020.
Our first-edition winners from 2019 are now selling their designs on Matchesfashion.com. Most recently, FTA partnered with Inexmoda and ProColombia to create Unique Edition, bridging the fashion and creative worlds of Latin America with the Arab region, by providing young designers with international exposure to new markets, and the possibility to learn from each other.
What does Fashion Trust Arabia aim to do for brands in the MENA region?
We aim to give financial support, mentoring, guidance and exposure for fashion brands from the MENA region. We help young designers through
FTA’s network. For example, we partnered with Maison de Mode, who mentored FTA prizewinners. We also exposed them to journalists, as well as judges and an advisory board made up of the likes of Pierpaolo Piccioli, Olivier Rousteing, Elie Saab and Elizabeth Saltzman, who gave valuable advice and guidance to FTA prizewinners.
In your opinion, how does this region differ to other fashion markets across the globe?
The region doesn’t mass produce, so much of the output is handmade, artisanal and sustainable. And we also have very important eveningwear designers based in the region, such as Elie Saab, Rami Al Ali, Ashi, Zuhair Murad and Rabih Kayrouz.
How has this year’s pandemic affected the work of FTA?
In 2020, we were unable to have our annual ceremony, which was scheduled for March, due to COVID-19. We ended up having the ceremony virtually and still handed out the five prizes.
Can you talk us through your career in fashion?
I co-founded fashion brand Lulu & Co with Lulu Kennedy. We were creating collaborations with artists before anybody else did. I then founded British Fashion Council Fashion Trust and became a contributing editor for British Vogue in 2011. You’re
not just the co-chair and co-founder of Fashion Trust Arabia, you also have launched the Fashion Trust in other regions including the UK. Are there any other regions the Fashion Trust reaches?
Yes. We have the InStyle Fashion Trust in the United States, and this year we’re inviting Colombia to be part of FTA.
What was it like partnering with a major ecommerce site like Matches Fashion for FTA?
We are grateful for their invaluable support. FTA prizewinners are selling their products on Matchesfashion.com, allowing them to reach a global market. In addition, it’s been extremely beneficial for the designers to be mentored by a respected retail institution like Matchesfashion.com.
What advice do you wish you had received on the beginning of your journey to success?
Always trust your instincts.
You work incredibly hard, where do you get your motivation from?
Seeing designers from the MENA region grow, flourish, develop their brands, achieve success and be recognized on a global level is extremely motivating.
Looking back over your career, can you tell us about three major hurdles you’ve had to overcome?
Managing family and career; learning how to raise funds; and not being able to have one home, but rather three homes on three different continents.
What are your future plans for Fashion Trust Arabia?
In an ambitious effort to widen its scope, FTA is expanding its online presence by restyling its current website – fashiontrustarabia.com.
This is ‘The Power Issue’ – what does power mean to you?
The ability to effect meaningful change while remaining humble.
Her Highness Sheikha Intisar Al Sabah is not afraid to push boundaries – in fact she doesn’t see any boundaries for Arab women, choosing instead to believe that there should be a support system that allows them to rise, even out of the most traumatic circumstances.
As part of the Kuwaiti ruling family, Her Highness Sheikha Intisar Al Sabah is the founder of Intisar jewellery, Lulua Publishing, skincare line Prismologie and Intisar Foundation. Each may appear to have a different approach, yet they all have the same purpose – to improve mental wellbeing. “Our vision is to transform self-care from an occasional indulgence into a daily ritual and to empower people across the globe to take charge of their wellbeing through colour and scent,” she explains. In the turbulent times that we are going through, physical, mental, emotional and spiritual health has never been more important. “COVID-19 has reinforced the demand for human touch, wellbeing, immersive regimes and concepts that boost immunity and all-round health. It has also forced us to see that we all need to take time out both mentally and physically”, Her Highness agrees.
Her Highness Sheikha Intisar truly believes in the power of the mind and how it can be used for good. This has led her to launch a ground-breaking platform, Intisar Foundation, in 2018 to support women traumatized by war and violence, something she had a close encounter with: “I was a victim of war in 1990 and I had come to a realisation that unless I released any PTSD (post-traumatic stress disorder) that I suffered I will not be at peace or be kind to people around me. Working on myself brought strength I did not realise I had inside of me and with it came the ability to lift others after I was able to get myself out of the victim stage to the place where you can be so strong and mentally solid. This realisation led me to start the foundation as the Arab world is the most turbulent region on earth and if there is no catharsis of negative war trauma and healthy empowerment of women the cycle of violence will continue and this is unacceptable.”
Supporting hundreds of refugee women, Intisar Foundation most notably uses drama therapy that helps survivors work through depression, anxiety, post-traumatic stress disorder. Not only that, but this community-based intervention facilitates “healing and empowerment within some of the most marginalised communities in Lebanon and Jordan.” The UKbased humanitarian organisation is one of the first in the Middle East to focus on the psychological health of women in a safe and intimate group setting. “Drama therapy is an inclusive, non-stigmatising, easy and engaging form of therapy that guides these women through expressing difficult emotions, becoming vulnerable, and rehearsing healthier behaviours together and in a safe environment. It, therefore, helps them remove shame, guilt, and depression, and achieve a higher level of mental wellbeing and better emotional awareness. A survey carried out after our drama therapy programme in the Shatila Refugee Camp in Beirut revealed that over 68 per cent of participants reported a reduction in PTSD, just over 93 per cent in depression, and 75 per cent in anxiety.”
The foundation is run by women who regularly travel to Lebanon and Jordan to take part in group sessions while also establishing teams of researchers and drama therapists on the ground. The pandemic may have shifted their therapies online with videos of techniques women can implement at home, but the “new normal” has allowed the royal to hit pause on her demanding schedule. “This pandemic made me slow down in some aspects and also look at making bigger, more strategic plans and work towards a bigger picture, thus minimizing my workload.” Her Highness Sheikha Intisar’s workload does
not show any sign of decreasing as she is determined to reach more women with her #OneMillionArabWomen initiative. The 20-year plan strives to train around 600 drama therapists and facilitators in order to heal one million Arab women who are struggling with trauma through drama therapy because it truly does work. According to their in-house surveys, 78 per cent of participants experienced an increase in self-esteem, and 43 per cent saw an improvement in overall satisfaction with life. And it’s not just the numbers that prove a point, the royal uses some of the methods herself to help her find balance. “I have been working towards reaching the place I am in now for years. I learned how to use positive psychology to better mental wellbeing and now with Intisar Foundation, I am growing my voice and releasing all shame and guilt to come to a place where only really huge events disrupt me. When they do, I perform gratitude exercises and use tools from drama therapy to get me back to balance.”
We live in uncertain times, forced to take on many elements that are out of our control, but we do have the power to take charge of our lives and our minds. One thing that Intisar Foundation and Her Highness Sheikha Intisar have shown is that we are stronger than we think, especially when we lift each other up. “I look at every woman as a powerful woman, some still have not seen their strength but I do and I am inspired by it.”