Some of the most in­no­va­tive cos­met­ics col­lec­tions come from the peo­ple who work with beauty ev­ery day – pro­fes­sional make-up artists.

Bobbi Brown may be say­ing good­bye to her brand, but the trend for make-up-artist-led ranges is stronger than Bobbi’s no-budge eye­liner. Louise Emma Clarke picks the best

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When Bobbi Brown Cos­met­ics cel­e­brated its 25th an­niver­sary in suit­ably joy­ous fash­ion last year, few could have pre­dicted the news that would come on De­cem­ber 19, 2016 – the an­nounce­ment that Bobbi Brown was leav­ing her own brand

Estée Lauder, which owns the brand, said that Bobbi (right) was leav­ing ‘to ex­plore the next phase of her ex­tra­or­di­nary ca­reer’.

‘The an­niver­sary was a won­der­ful mile­stone that made me re­alise it was time to start a new chap­ter and move on to new ven­tures,’ said Bobbi, adding: ‘I’m ex­cited to see what the fu­ture holds.’

The news sent shock waves through the in­dus­try – but it also served to high­light the very real suc­cess that cos­metic brands can have when fronted by a top make-up artist. Bobbi Brown Cos­met­ics is now sold in 70 coun­tries world­wide and de­scribed by Estée Lauder Com­pa­nies as ‘a global pres­tige pow­er­house’. In­dus­try in­sid­ers have no doubt that the suc­cess of the com­pany will con­tinue

‘If an artist puts their NAME to a col­lec­tion, it en­sures the prod­ucts will be good – af­ter all, they VET ev­ery­thing. But it also gives CON­FI­DENCE to con­sumers to buy some­thing that would most likely not dis­ap­point’

to grow, even with­out her at the helm.

But Bobbi is far from be­ing the first or only pro­fes­sional make-up artist to cre­ate a suc­cess­ful line of cos­met­ics. From Dany Sanz’s highly ac­claimed Make Up For Ever, to lo­cal artist-turned-blog­ger Huda Kat­tan launch­ing Huda Beauty to sell-out suc­cess, af­fil­i­at­ing a top make-up artist with a cos­met­ics col­lec­tion ap­pears a sure path to a hit.

Take Laura Mercier, for ex­am­ple, who launched Laura Mercier Cos­met­ics in 1996 af­ter 10 years work­ing as a pro­fes­sional make-up artist. The line is now avail­able in 27 coun­tries world­wide and has a rep­u­ta­tion for be­ing one of the best make-up-artistcre­ated col­lec­tions. ‘I feel like Laura Mercier in par­tic­u­lar is lead­ing the pack when it comes to pro­fes­sional make-up artist make-up lines,’ says Dubai-based beauty writer and for­mer pro­fes­sional make-up artist Si­mone Gan­non.

‘She was fa­mous for skin when work­ing with fash­ion and celebrity clients – real, beau­ti­ful, glow­ing, dewy nat­u­ral skin. No one could do skin the way she could – and that has trans­lated to her make-up line. Her foun­da­tions and tinted mois­turis­ers in par­tic­u­lar are still win­ning ac­co­lades years and years af­ter they first hit the mar­ket. [There is] a wide range of shades, amaz­ing tex­ture and cov­er­age, and they give you re­ally good skin, with­out it look­ing heavy or cakey. There are so many non-make-up artist-led brands that have never man­aged to achieve that.’ It’s not just a mat­ter of ef­fi­cient prod­ucts, says Dubai-based make-up artist Shomyza S – make-up-artist ranges give con­sumers more con­fi­dence, too. She ex­plains: ‘If an artist puts their name to a col­lec­tion, it en­sures the prod­ucts will be good – af­ter all, they vet ev­ery­thing that is launched. But it also gives con­fi­dence to con­sumers to buy some­thing that would most likely not dis­ap­point – and while it might in­crease the cost of the prod­uct for the com­pany, it doesn’t nec­es­sar­ily in­crease the sell­ing price to the con­sumer, be­cause brands know they have to re­main com­pet­i­tive in the mar­ket.’

There are now more ranges by make-up artists than there are shades of lippy – which ones should you plump for? Here’s our guide.

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