WHERE TO STAY

Orchid Hotel (00 86 10 8565 9295, theorchidbeijing.com) is a bargain, with a great setting down a lane in the thick of a bustling hutong. For views out over Beijing’s bizarre, futuristic architecture, try Rosewood Beijing (00 86 10 6597 8888, rosewoodhotels.com/en/beijing), in the financial district – worth it for its ‘world’ of breakfasts. For proximity to the Forbidden City, splash out on the Waldorf Astoria (00 86 10 8520 8989, waldorfastoria3.hilton.com).