TRAVELLER’S CHECKS
feature of these mini-adventures. In 1908, STP was the world’s biggest producer of cocoa, and there were 800 of these places. Now, they’re magnificently crumbly, some with grand old churches or the outlines of a railway system. Agua Ize had once operated more than 30 miles of track, and there are still traces of it, snaking through the ferns.
Meanwhile, at Agostinho Neto, we clambered up through its hospital’s glorious ruins. Once one of the best in Africa, most of its roof is missing now, and a village has appeared among the wards. Further south, the jungle opened out, and we were on the ocean again. Here were some of the finest beaches; Micondo, Inhame and Jale. Usually, there was no one around except the kingfishers and the giant crabs. For calmer swimming there was Piscina, where the lava has created natural infinity pools, lined with white sand. Beyond was Ilheu das Rolas, an island of beaches. It’s the nearest land mass to the coordinates 00N 00E. With its own resort (and the giant pool), it’s a paddler’s heaven at the centre of the earth.
Just when I thought things couldn’t get better, we flew to Principe. Everything has sought refuge here, including birds like manakins and drongos, whales, turtles and the traction engines. In the tiny city of Santo Antonio (population 1,200), the supermercado sells almost nothing but fish hooks and beer.
Our last days were the best of all, at Bom Bom. With its gentle forest and long blonde beaches, this is exactly how I’ve always imagined my desert island. The resort itself was so unobtrusive and subtle that we hardly seemed to notice it – until we needed prawns or a snorkel. One day, it’s said, Bom Bom will be Principe’s salvation: A roost for the super-elite. But, for now, it’s ours to enjoy. My favourite walk was over the headland to Ribeira Ize, the ruins of a slaving station built in the 15th century.
On our last morning, we went whalewatching. Initially we saw nothing but flying fish, but then there was one last great Santomean surprise. Just ahead of us, a humpback burst out of the water and, in mid-air, it turned and seemed to give us a flippery wave. Then it was gone again, disappearing deep into the volcanic roots of this remarkable land. Rainbow Tours (rainbow tours. co.uk) offers an 11-day tour to STP from Dh13,418 based on two sharing. Includes flights from London, four nights’ B&B at Omali Lodge, six nights’ half-board at Bom Bom on Principe, transfers and domestic flights.
How to get there
TAP Portugal (flytap.com) flies from Lisbon three times a week. Around Dh3,500 return including all taxes and surcharges.
Where to stay
Omali Lodge: Offers 30 modern suites arranged around a pool – and the only tennis court in the country. (omalilodge. com; doubles from Dh580).
Pestana Sao Tome: A stylish five-star hotel, aimed at business travellers, it has a saltwater pool overlooking the bay (pestana.com; doubles from Dh842). Pestana Equador, Ilheu das Rolas: Small resort with 70 cabins, lovely gardens and a fine promontory setting (pestana.com; doubles from Dh580). Mucumbli Ecolodge, Neves: Five clifftop chalets, with a beach of black basaltic sand minutes’ away. Great food. (mucumbli.wordpress.com; doubles from Dh260).
Bom Bom Island Resort, Principe: It’s understated luxury with idyllic views (bom bomprincipe.com; doubles from Dh1,300).